Enchanted by Haute Couture by emma graef

Haute Couture Spring 2013. Handmade, hand-painted, pieces that can take 500 hours to make. It's art and magic, but believe it or nor, the houses also get plenty of buyers. Lucky bastards..

Fairytales have been interested public for a while now. We've had movies about Grimm's brothers, Tolkien sagas, of course Potters, Hans and Gretel, but also tv-serie Once Upon a Time, where well-known Grimm's characters all live together and combine together their magical stories. Good always wins, true love is an answer to everything and always have faith. I simply adore Ginnifer Goodwin's Snow White. She truly pushes the big heart, strenght and optimism of Snow White through the TV-screen. I'm hooked. I certainly will (try to) add some Snow Whiteness in my attitude toward everything.

Lagerfeld truly brought some magic to the night with his Chanel Spring Couture 2013 collection. Magic and mystic are officially in for spring 2013. And I'm not talking about any Disney -fairytale stories here..

The Grand Palais were turned into mystical forest. Romantic, beautiful models with melancholic gazes and quarky postures. For these fashion queens from a fairytale I'd like to pump into in a dark forest. Though they would be the ones in need for a run for their life, give me that Chanel jacket! Maybe I would loose that match, the shoulder decorations tells me something about a strong woman, who wouldn't be afraid to take a part of a battle..

"There's nothing more elegant than a certain kind of melancholia," said Karl Lagerfeld himself and I see what he means. Just think about Greta Garbo and other stars from the 30's and 40's.

Antonia Wesseloh

How many designers were inspired by gardens for this season? Flowers, flowers, flowers. Well, maybe I shouldn't be so surprised, we talking about spring collections here..

Gorgeus dress with interesting "shoulder frame"

Much-talked "Two Brides" I'm happy about seeing feathers and leather in the collections, they are not going anywhere!

Gorgoeus makeup from Peter Philips that made a characteric set combined with the hair-pieces. While observing the makeup, I get reminded by The Black Swan and I can see in my mind these Chanel creatures running away in a dark forest, while feathers starts to grow through their skin and they turn from aristocratic ladies to birds with black feathers.

These head pieces also looked quite familiar from Anna Karenina -movie.. But more about that later!

Shimmering,creamy eyeshadow instead of matte one brings the look a step closer to fashion from a theatre makeup. And the color of the mouth is absolutely sweet and delicious.

Dior's Spring 2013 Couture got it's inspiration from Simmons and Christian Diors common passion, from garden. Dior showed us the good sides of fairytales with it's collection of some light-blue dresses, flowersflowersflowers, innocent hair and attention-stealer diamond lips.

The first models walking in a garden with sky-blue dresses got me into Disney's world with Mary Poppins and Cinderella

McGrath's Red Swarovski-crystal -lips with long eye catliner and defined eyebrows (especially warm toned ones) were perfect for a catwalk..

But as a fan of short hairs, I was more thrilled about Palau's short pixie wigs, styled ultra shiny.

Photos: style.com

From Russia with Love - Tolstoy Anna Karenina and Sergeenko by emma graef

I absolutely adore Russian's mysterious charm. There is something so romantic about certain historical Russian look and it's ballet, stories about Anastasia, Tolstoy and that specific shade of red, velvet.

Ulyana Sergeenko has also cast a spell upon all of us. This much-followed stylist/blogger showed her second collection Spring 2013 Couture while music from Wizard of Oz were filling the salle. This collection was about America and it's lovely stories, but luckily it didn't totally manage to hide it's Russian roots.

This info from style.com seemed for me as sweet as a fairytale: "The buttons nipping up the back of gowns were porcelain, hand-painted with characters out of Russian nursery rhymes, and delicate crocheted embroideries were inset like cameos into sweet silk blouses." I love haute couture.

One of my new favorites, Sasha Luss

The cloaks are the new jackets and who could tell it better than Little Red Riding Hood?

The shoulder-cut that also Lagerfeld showed us

Also, I finally saw Anna Karenina movie and through the whole two hours my thoughts were "why can't world look like that anymore?" Or why am I not Keira Knightley? Could I just imagine everything that surrounds me looking like 19th century Russian? If I spend my days drinking tea (and vodka), smoking cigarettes, dance ballet, spend evenings in operas and theatre, or on balls, if I'd learn how to curtsey in that elegant way ... No, I'd say no, my imagination is not strong enough (yet.) to trick my eyes to change my surroundings. And yes, it is possible that it may end up taking me into some very soft room. But luckily we have movies like Amelie, Marie Anttoinette and Anna Karenina that gives us a change to escape into that beautiful and charismatic world for a few of hours.

Long before I saw Anna Karenina movie, I had read about the hair and makeup in the movie. And it was beautiful. Simple. But there is nothing simple about creating fresh, glowing and natural looking skin and perfect eyebrows for a movie screen. Specially when Keira Knightley's makeup artist Ivana Primorac needed to change Keira's porcelain complexion into more olive toned. She trusted Chanel products.

"I used Chanel's Le Crayon Khol in Ambre liberally to elongate Keira's eye and create real depth -I rubbed it onto the back of my hand and then applied to the eye area with a brush to create very subtleshadow and also used it to create shape and real definition," she revealed."I used the Illusion D'Ombre shadows in an aubergine and a taupe/amber colour for all of the female characters to create the nude make-up look, but to accentuate their eyes. All the girls had full eye make-up on but we carefully chose the neutral colours to create shadow and definition with an authentic and not obviously made-up look." Amen!

Primorac gave extra attention to the blush using. She liked to use creamy lipstick from Chanel as a blush, but also added it on top of the nose, beneath the jawline, on her chin andbehind the earsto create a flushed and heated look.

But what particulary interested me, were those eyebrows. Primorac used real hair to lenghten Knightley's eyebrows and drew them more arched and strong. It was important that the result looked natural and un-plucked. I find this very good tecnic to create strong, even-colored, statement eyebrows:

1) Brush your eyebrows downwards. You can see the shape better this way.

2) Start the coloring from the arch and fill-in the empty spots. (I like Make Up Forever's waterproof color, that you can spread with a mascara brush or for more precise result and purpose even eyeliner brush works well, also Kiko's Eyebrow Marker is excellent) Draw the brows as low as you want (the result is more modern if you don't continue them too low, that also can make your gaze a little bit sad) Use powdery products too if needed. (I like Make Up Store's and Body Shop's eyebrow palettes)

3) Brush your brows back to normal position and even the color towards the inside corner of the brows.

4) Attach a bit upwards with eyebrow gel (H&M and Kiko has strong enough ones, or with a help of hairspray and a eyebrow/old mascara brush)

And oh. What was just shocking is, that somebody can be even more good-looking than Jude Law! Yep, I mean Count Vronsky (Aaron Taylor-Johnson.) Primorac told that it wasn't an easy task to make Law less attractive. She wanted him less young looking and add some life experience and seriousness to his look. The solution was aging makeup, paler skin and head shaving. Vronsky again got pale blue suits, blond wigs, those seductive (or not..) moustaches. We haven't lost Jude Law just yet.

Interview from Vogue.uk, photos Time Entertainement and style.com

The Most Gorgeous Makeup of Spring 2013 Goes to... by emma graef

Jason Wu's spring 2013 was one of the first show's on fashion weeks. The makeup and hair put the rest of the upcoming shows looks on very high expectations. It had everything what I always love to have on my makeups and in the whole look of the day: something masculin, something feminine, something bad, something cute, something rock.

Bette Franke looking more gorgeous than ever

The makeup is by Diane Kendal. The skin was made gorgeous and glowing with amazing preparations, including face masks and face massages. The skin makeup were trusted by MAC products. The feminene, open eyes were made using golden yellow eyeshadow and taupe color in the crease of the eyelid, that also supported the black, super light catliner. The mascara was added just only on the upper eyelashes, but the taupe colored eyeshadow gave a little shape on the lower eyelid.

Eyebrows were strong, retro and boyish. They were made by powdery products and brushed upwards. If your eyebrow gel is not strong enough, spray some hairspray in your eyebrow brush before brushing the brows on their place.

The eyebrows and lips supported each other in this makeup. The gorgeous lip color was not added by only one tube: 

“As for that lip, it was a work in process with not one, not two, but five different steps. Kendal coated the entire pout with MAC Lip Pencil in Cherry, using its Lip Pencil in Vino, a darker wine stain, just around the outline. Then came a dose of MAC Lipstick in Lady at Play, a pink hue, which she topped with its Lipmix in Process Magenta, only in the center, and a sprinkling of its Pigment in Neo-Orange. Do try this at home." ( tells style.com)

As for me, using two kinds of lip pencil sounds just lip-perfecting idea to give just a slight of "black lipstick" mood for the look. Lip pencil Vino certainly woke up my shopping mood, as I also believe in a very thin line of black/aubergine kajal pen around the outline of the lips, smoothed well towards the center of the lips.

P.S This picture reveals everything I have on my shopping list: headband with the mysterious lace in front of you

Marc Jacob's 60's Obsession by emma graef

Marc did it again! Louis Vuitton spring 2013 RTW supported very strongly Jacobs' line on Marc Jacobs -show earlier in New York. It only makes me happy, there is always nice to have some 60's mood in the air. And this time, you got everytime the double amount of the look. That is a way to use your time efficiently, the show lasted only six minutes.

The new Edie Sedgwick, Ruby Jean Wilson opening again the Jacobs' designed show with Nastya Kusakina

The double-models supported well the retro atmosphere of the show. Imagine a mall in the 60's, fashion-obsessed girls leaning to the walls, gazing at the boys behind their thick eyelashes. The girls in their little groups looked all the same, like sisters or twins.u00a0Or is this only how I would imagine the retro-looking world?

I absolutely love the hip bones peeking once in a while between the energetic colors and geometric prints.

I can only also imagine the casting situation for the models. If they didn't find anyone who would look good pairing with you or who looked enough like you, had the same length, you are not walking. And always before they have heard how important is to be remembered by something unique.. Always something new and surprising in a world of fashion.

The makeup by Pat McCrath was a tone more natural than in Marc Jacobs show in New York, but still faithful and supporting to the 60's look. I am always the fan of peachy coral eyeshadow's because of the popping out effect it gives to blue eyes, which was the element on this makeup. The eyebrows were there, but not as a point of the makeup, but to support the lack of the upper eyeliner. The eyeliner on the bottom eyelid was a fine line following the roots of the eyelashes.

I love Julia Nobis' look more day by day

The McMenanmys by emma graef

"Lily McMenamy" I tried in models.com, but it gave me nothing. Google enlightned me with the information about her famous mother, who's face I certainly embarrassingly recognized.

<img alt="" src="http://www.styleoftoday.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/LILY_McMENAMY-300x424-300x280.jpg" />

This short movie I saw over an year ago, but sometimes it still jingles my mind. This is where I remember KIrsten McMenamy the best from. Also gives me thoughts how has it been creating this Chanel short film! Directed by Karl Lagerfeld, actresses wearing all those dresses in such a beautiful atmospheres. Although the story of the characters might have kept the mood not-so-cheery during the shooting.

This short movie I saw over an year ago, but sometimes it still jingles my mind. This is where I remember KIrsten McMenamy the best from. Also gives me thoughts how has it been creating this Chanel short film! Directed by Karl Lagerfeld, actresses wearing all those dresses in such a beautiful atmospheres. Although the story of the characters might have kept the mood not-so-cheery during the shooting.

But back to the younger McMenanmy, to Lily. That picture from Chanel spring 2013 RTW -show might not be the most flattering picture of her, but it got me to google her! Who is this all-about-mouth girl in Chanel show? So I'd say: 1)there is no such thing as "bad publicity" (but everything has it's limits, usually has a lot to do with reality-tv stars..) and 2) Tyra is right, "Perfect is boring." Lily is beautiful. 3) Blue silverish shiny eyeshadow needs some grace to carry it right, not a duck-face. Always remember.

Learn from your Mama, Lily

Photos: style.com, styleoftoday.com, vogue.it, i-D

Moonrise Kingdom by emma graef

What kind of movies do you like? Obviously I like comedies, specially with the scenes where the characters are in very awkward situations and it just makes you crawl on your couch, hide behind the pillow and feel the sympathy-embarrassement. Or where the characters are very lovable, I think anything Zooey Deschanel plays, turns to be lovable. I just watched again one of my favorite movies Almost Famous, but I didn't remember that she also plays in there! But most of all, I like beautiful movies. Movies, that are filled with scenes that makes you want to press pause to stare the second-long moment for longer to see absolutely everything. Maybe it's the story that makes the movie beautiful, maybe the characters, but it has a lot to do with the clothes, makeup, the scenery and period. Marie Anttoinette, Amelie, The Artist, Almost Famous, Gone WIth the Wind, Cabaret.. So in other words, movies that inspires me. And the newest one to my list is Moonrise Kingdom.

In this movie, there are actually many scenes that the camera just zooms into these incredible talented and cute actors faces and they do stare you back.

(Kara Hayward as Suzy Bishop) During spesific scenes, immediately you start memorize about your own childhoold memories on the beach and in the forests. Maybe it has a lot to do with the beautiful color world of the movie.

Suzy (Kara Hayward, 14-years old..) strolls through the forests with her love, wearing those cute dresses (now Ineeda collar dress!) and carries all her favorite books and her binoculars with her. And I loved the character she is playing. These things combined makes totally the 60's "Cleopatra" makeupon herreally cool and right for her character.

So this text is not about how to do The Kara Bishop -makeup, it's a wonder how lovely it is to make strong characters with a help of makeup.

That is the one biggest reasons I love doing both: fashion and theatre makeup. On each the makeup artist createsa character.More strongly maybe in theatre and movies, but on catwalk we do see a character of a woman that the designer wants the women everywhere to identify with. In fashion, makeup artist needs to inspire more, in movies to support the character and the story. Imagine Suzy with a very natural makeup. That would have made her character very different, than now the Suzy with the strong blueish green makeup and peachy lipstick. The makeup makes her more adult, more woman, more woman ready to get married.

How about The Hunger Games? How much the makeup tells about the characters (are they from rich or poor distrcit) and about the period of the time? Of course in Hunger Games also the scenery tells pretty strongly that the year is not 2012. I do love the vision of the fashion, it is so full of imagination. The makeup artists must have had such a good time planning those characters. But of course because of Hunger Games I am waiting in horror that I would suddenly have a gift to live forever and I would see reality-tv going over the edge, but more terrifying would be end up looking like a delicious cupcake..

Photos finnkino.fi, blog.beautycollection.com

The Famous Wink by emma graef

My joy for gothic fall 2012 just continues and continues! This i-D cover with Twigs is a picture I would use to describe my favorite look for the season. So velvety, so cool, so rock. Everytime I see it, I just want run to piercing studio and get a nose piercing and join a pirate ship.

This cover signifies " the new romance" to me. Time to dig those plum and wine-red lipsticks under the light pink lipsticks that you used a lot during the summer. I love Make Up Store's shade Smock and MAC's shades Film Noir and MAC's Pro Longwear's Faithfully Yours (favorite!) during the fall.

You also fell in love with these pirate lips, didn't you! Keep your lips always-moistured with vaseline to make the lips colored this strong to last and still feel good. Tap some foundation on your lips and powder lightly. Draw the lines carefully, beginning in the middle of the lips, with a plum/dark violet lip pencil, like Tigi's shade Kiss or Make Up Store's Golden Plum. Fill the lips totally with the lip pencil to make the lipstick last longer and to avoid the look, when you have only the lip's liners left after a dinner.. Finally spread two layers of lipstick with a lip brush. Between the layers, kiss/bite a piece of paper.To make the lips look more full, make the coloring more dark on the edges and lighter in the middle.

Even the black eyeliner looks here like an usable and interesting idea for a very long time. To create a line that looks more like a piece of velvet next to your eyelashes, use black eyeshadow on top of the eyeliner to get the makeup last and to soften it up.

For creating super strong eyebrows, that sculpures the face, start with brushing the eyebrows down-wards. This way you can easily see the line of your eyebrows. Start by filling with a powdery dark brown product the "wing part" of the brows. Make the middle part of the eyebrows even-thick. Now brush the brows back upwards and add more lightly some color in the beginning of the eyebrows, still filling the gaps, but to avoid very strict look, make sure the line doesn't go downwards in the beginning of the eyebrows. Leave also the tail of the eyebrows short to avoid sad-looking gaze. Finish with a eyebrow gel to keep the brows upwards.

These strong eyebrows sculpture the face well, so no need to use any sculpturing on the face with a help of a matt bronzer, also the lack helps to keep the look more young-looking. Just MAC's creamy blush shade Lilicent is enough to get a little color on your cheeks. This shade is very natural and easy to spread just with a help of fingers, following the line of your cheek bones.

According to my bible www.style.com Pat McGrath used on fall 2012 show's MAC's creamy eyeshadow Coverwork to create the same kind of delicious, super easy and natural looking eye makeup. That product definetely goes to my list.

Photo: i-D "Just Kids" Issue