SS14 Looks: Attention-Lips and White Eyeshadow's Comeback / by emma graef

I've been all shh shh on this blog for a guilty amount of time. I love writing and all my energy has gone to my Finnish blog about model life. Now it's time to give some attention to inspirations too!

Even if it always doesn't feel like it by the weather, spring is here and if living your life by fashion seasons, it has been here for a while already. It is definitely time to report you all the looks seen on catwalk for the season Spring/Summer 2014!

What I love most about this current season and specially the coming season Autumn/WInter15 is the expression of individuality. There were looks for everybody: for natural look-lovers, for bad girls, interesting color choices and shapes, looks that reminded more traditional beauty makeup than runway look..

Today I want to concentrate on looks that gave attention to the lips and also for a look that I haven't done for myself since I was 14-years-old or for stage makeup.. White eyeshadow!

White eyelids were strutting on catwalk on Ralph Lauren. The collection itself was a bit judged, not many other designers showed that 60's mood. The makeup artist Tom Pecheux told on how he was inspired by Twiggy and Jane Birkin. If looking at Ralph Lauren's previous seasons, the makeup is not very shocking or surprising indeed.Senior Beauty Editor Amber Kallor was surprised enough after seeing mascara on upper and lower lashes. Shocking!


Backstage of Ralph Lauren with makeup artist Tom Pecheux

To create the look inspired by Ralph Lauren's backstage:

Base your eyelids with foundation. Tap snow-white matt eyeshadow until the crease of the lid. Make the eyes brighter by adding the white eyeshadow also the inside corner of the eye. If you like, make your eyes bigger by adding matte beige eyeshadow in the crease. Blend well, but make sure the eyelids stay white. Define the eye with white kajal. Curl the lashes and add a layer of black mascara, on both upper and lower lashes. Let it dry and add another one. As many as you dare!

Make your skin even by a foundation suitable of your skin type. My new favorite is to add it with beauty blender sponge, but Shiseido's round foundation brush never fails either. Hide the spots and red ares by the nose by tapping the concealer on the trouble area. Don't spread it back and forth, it only makes the concealer thinner and more see-through, not actually doing it's job. To attack the dark eye-circles that already-mentioned beauty blender sponge is a killer!

Add loose powder on your t-zone and contour your face lightly. Start spreading the powdery color under the cheekbones towards the ears. As you can see from the backstage picture, contouring is very light. Choose powdery, light pink blush.

Brush your eyebrows upward, you can choose to help some eyebrow gel or spray some hairspray on clean mascara brush.

The lips on this look are balmy, more fresh looking than on traditional 60's inspired makeup. Tap a berry-pink color on your lips with your finger. I like Bite's Raspberry.

Backstage from Altuzarra, also by Tom Pecheux

Altuzarra has been on NY fashion weeks only for five years and it is a show to watch. Tom Pecheux was the makeup artist also behind this look, but even that both in Ralph Lauren and with Altuzarra the white eyeshadow was on spot, the looks spirits are completely different. Altuzarra's look is more adult, more woman. It might remind you of Snow White, but with right kind of hair look and choice of clothes this look can be flattering and of course, very trendy.

To create Altuzarra-inspired makeup:

Prepare your eyelids with a thin layer of foundation or eyebase product. Add a small amount of loose powder. Choose a matte white eyeshadow and spread it with a natural brush on it's place. Make the color most intense until the crease of the lid and blend the color until all the corners of the eye. You can see the shape well on the pictures. The white color just below the highest point of the eyebrow makes the shape of it more lifted and shaped. Add just one layer of mascara on upper lashes. You can avoid the mascara stains on your lid by spreading the mascara against a spoon, business card, Sephora's lash comb..

Make your skin even with a foundation suitable for your skin. I like to add a drop of skin serum on the foundation to make it treating and SPF is a must-requirement. Add concealer and hide dark eyecircles if needed (look more spesific tips from RL's look) Secure the skin products with loose powder, concentrating on t-zone. Make a light contouring underneath your cheek bones. Add some more shape by adding highlight product on the highest points of your cheeck bones. I like MAC's Mineralize Skinfiinish and their creamy products. If the highlight product has some light-pink color in it, just better because the lack of blush.

This looks requires well-treated lips that you can ensure with lip balming. Before starting the lip-makeup, wipe the balm away, this result needs to be matte. Start by tapping foundation on your lips. Use a red lipliner, start on the cupid's arch and blending the color towards the middle. Choose a bright red, matte lipstick. MAC's China Red is a classic. Take a slice of it and place it on the back of your hand, mix it a bit: this way the color comes more intense than taking with a brush straight from the tube. Spread the color from the back of your hand on your lips. Start by defining teh cupid's arch with the brush, then from the middle, going towards the sides.Take a thin piece of paper and bite it with your lips, then add another layer of lipstick. Set your piece of paper again on your lips and tap loose powder through it on your lips with a clean natural brush. These lips last long!

Brush your eyebrows upwards and fill the holes with eyebrow pen or powdery product. Anastasia has a impressive selection. Keep the brows natural looking.

My favorite trick is in the end of makeup to fix it with MAC's Fix+ -spray. Close your eyes, stretch out your arm, aim to your face and press two times. Open your eyes, but squint them for a moment that the mascara won't spread on white eyelids. Fix+ makes the makeup last and blends the powdery and creamy products well together.


Backstage of Helmut Lang by makeup artist Hannah Murray

Bold lips were also seen with Helmut Lang, who charmed the crowd with 90's wibe. Not by approaching it with grunge look, but more sophisticated road. Makeup artist Hannah Murray choose brownish-red lipstick. She didn't spread it as technically as on the backstage of Altuzarra, the result was wanted to be more natural next to well-shaped clothes. The trick on these lips was more dark color lipliner than the lipstick, blended towards the center.

Spring/Summer 2014 was full of lovely looks, there is more tips and tutorials from me to come to get inspired and express yourself!

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