From Russia with Love - Tolstoy Anna Karenina and Sergeenko / by emma graef

I absolutely adore Russian's mysterious charm. There is something so romantic about certain historical Russian look and it's ballet, stories about Anastasia, Tolstoy and that specific shade of red, velvet.

Ulyana Sergeenko has also cast a spell upon all of us. This much-followed stylist/blogger showed her second collection Spring 2013 Couture while music from Wizard of Oz were filling the salle. This collection was about America and it's lovely stories, but luckily it didn't totally manage to hide it's Russian roots.

This info from style.com seemed for me as sweet as a fairytale: "The buttons nipping up the back of gowns were porcelain, hand-painted with characters out of Russian nursery rhymes, and delicate crocheted embroideries were inset like cameos into sweet silk blouses." I love haute couture.

One of my new favorites, Sasha Luss

The cloaks are the new jackets and who could tell it better than Little Red Riding Hood?

The shoulder-cut that also Lagerfeld showed us

Also, I finally saw Anna Karenina movie and through the whole two hours my thoughts were "why can't world look like that anymore?" Or why am I not Keira Knightley? Could I just imagine everything that surrounds me looking like 19th century Russian? If I spend my days drinking tea (and vodka), smoking cigarettes, dance ballet, spend evenings in operas and theatre, or on balls, if I'd learn how to curtsey in that elegant way ... No, I'd say no, my imagination is not strong enough (yet.) to trick my eyes to change my surroundings. And yes, it is possible that it may end up taking me into some very soft room. But luckily we have movies like Amelie, Marie Anttoinette and Anna Karenina that gives us a change to escape into that beautiful and charismatic world for a few of hours.

Long before I saw Anna Karenina movie, I had read about the hair and makeup in the movie. And it was beautiful. Simple. But there is nothing simple about creating fresh, glowing and natural looking skin and perfect eyebrows for a movie screen. Specially when Keira Knightley's makeup artist Ivana Primorac needed to change Keira's porcelain complexion into more olive toned. She trusted Chanel products.

"I used Chanel's Le Crayon Khol in Ambre liberally to elongate Keira's eye and create real depth -I rubbed it onto the back of my hand and then applied to the eye area with a brush to create very subtleshadow and also used it to create shape and real definition," she revealed."I used the Illusion D'Ombre shadows in an aubergine and a taupe/amber colour for all of the female characters to create the nude make-up look, but to accentuate their eyes. All the girls had full eye make-up on but we carefully chose the neutral colours to create shadow and definition with an authentic and not obviously made-up look." Amen!

Primorac gave extra attention to the blush using. She liked to use creamy lipstick from Chanel as a blush, but also added it on top of the nose, beneath the jawline, on her chin andbehind the earsto create a flushed and heated look.

But what particulary interested me, were those eyebrows. Primorac used real hair to lenghten Knightley's eyebrows and drew them more arched and strong. It was important that the result looked natural and un-plucked. I find this very good tecnic to create strong, even-colored, statement eyebrows:

1) Brush your eyebrows downwards. You can see the shape better this way.

2) Start the coloring from the arch and fill-in the empty spots. (I like Make Up Forever's waterproof color, that you can spread with a mascara brush or for more precise result and purpose even eyeliner brush works well, also Kiko's Eyebrow Marker is excellent) Draw the brows as low as you want (the result is more modern if you don't continue them too low, that also can make your gaze a little bit sad) Use powdery products too if needed. (I like Make Up Store's and Body Shop's eyebrow palettes)

3) Brush your brows back to normal position and even the color towards the inside corner of the brows.

4) Attach a bit upwards with eyebrow gel (H&M and Kiko has strong enough ones, or with a help of hairspray and a eyebrow/old mascara brush)

And oh. What was just shocking is, that somebody can be even more good-looking than Jude Law! Yep, I mean Count Vronsky (Aaron Taylor-Johnson.) Primorac told that it wasn't an easy task to make Law less attractive. She wanted him less young looking and add some life experience and seriousness to his look. The solution was aging makeup, paler skin and head shaving. Vronsky again got pale blue suits, blond wigs, those seductive (or not..) moustaches. We haven't lost Jude Law just yet.

Interview from Vogue.uk, photos Time Entertainement and style.com