About being a cruelty-free & Clean /Non-Toxic Makeup Artist by emma graef

Made mostly with clean / non toxic makeup products  Photographer: Starky Morillo II Model:  Diane-Laure  II Hair: Campbell and Campbell II Style: Leah Standish II Makeup by me

Made mostly with clean / non toxic makeup products

Photographer: Starky Morillo II Model: Diane-Laure II Hair: Campbell and Campbell II Style: Leah Standish II Makeup by me

Last autumn 2018 I decided to make my kit cruelty-free and with “clean beauty” skin care and makeup products, as long as the quality for my clients would not be disturbed.

What determines clean/non-toxic cosmetics? Unfortunately, the terms are not regulated. For me, it means cosmetic products that are safe for us to us — they won’t cause hormonal disturbances, are not carcinogenic, won’t irritate your skin and are also friendlier for the environment since these companies are paying attention to the recyclability of their packaging.

A couple of years ago I started to have a bad conscience about my profession. I started to be aware of the ingredients of cosmetic products and the consumerism in this business. Buying new products for my kit was difficult. I could spend hours in Sephora trying to make sense out of the ingredient lists. I had products in my kit that I wouldn’t use on myself daily and I couldn’t tolerate that thought any longer. Being a makeup artist is not about saving the world (though who hasn’t gasped ‘thank God for makeup’ on your not-freshest days?), but I started to feel as though I am actually doing harm here.

I started my research about harmful ingredients in cosmetics and the list turned out to be long and frustrating. I learned how here in the USA the FDA has banned 30 ingredients in cosmetics, compared to EU that has banned over 1300. The astonishing difference between the numbers are because EU’s politics are preventative and FDA bans or regulates the ingredients only after it is proved to cause health issues, which can take a long time and the process is complicated to execute. This fact alone makes me very anxious. Our skin absorbs a lot that we put on it and when you think about all the products people tend to layer on, it can get scary. Toners, serums, face creams, SPF, primers, foundations, concealers… Shall I go on?

To make things more complicated, this doesn’t mean that everything coming from the nature is safe and good for our skin. There are great synthetic ingredients as well as amazing natural ingredients and the companies that knows how to combine these ingredients (with high-quality results!) have made it to my kit.

What is inside the NEW NON-TOXIC Lumous Makeup kit?

Ready for the bridal trials

Ready for the bridal trials

Many “natural” beauty companies have essential oils in them. Some of the essential oils are high in antioxidants but are also skin irritants and damaging in the long run. Essential oils are actually very hard to avoid in the “clean beauty” department. Irritated skin shows signs of aging faster and it is like smoking tobacco or sunbathing — even if the damage is not instant there will be signs in later years. It depends on your skin type when the harm starts to show. My sensitive skin showed serious irritation (acne, redness, itchiness) after only couple of months of use (this was a learning experience). According to some studies, the amount of 0.1% of an essential oil is not irritating but this doesn’t take into account that there can be many of them combined. The essential oils are added to these products perhaps because of their antioxidant aspect and also as a fragrance.

Luckily we have some beauty brands that are paying attention to what is actually good for our skin and what makes it more beautiful. I have enjoyed using Paula’s Choice and Drunk Elephant products as skin care. They are fragrance free and the list of ingredients they are not putting on their products is thorough.

To find out exactly what products are in my kit, look for my follow-out post!

It is not beautiful inside-out if it is not cruelty-free

Art by @liina_music

Art by @liina_music

Since May 2018 I haven’t purchased makeup or skin care products that test on animals on any point of their development process. Cosmetic company can have a policy that they do not test on animals except if it’s required by law, which doesn’t make a company cruelty-free then. In China (excluding Hong Kong) animal testing is required by law for all foreign cosmetic companies. The products that are not made in China and that have a physical store in there are required for animal testing. This was very disappointing for me to learn. These companies actually pay for the Chinese government to do the animal testing.'

In comparison, animal testing is banned in E.U. The Chinese way is not necessary at all.
I believe these big companies entering the Chinese market can have the power to stop the cruel animal testing simply by not selling there. To stop the animal testing it needs a decision from a consumer too, to not buy these companies.

Of course I had always heard about the horrid conditions for these animals in labs but it was @rescuefreedomproject that truly opened my eyes. Also owning my own beagle mix rescue dog called Surku. No animal deserves a life in a lab but can you believe they use beagles for animal testing because of their loving, forgiving, calm nature? It’s too heartbreaking.
Luckily there are many brands that don’t test on animals so you can easily find an alternative product! I always check from @crueltyfreekitty before purchasing.
There is no reason to support these companies that test their products on animals. Simply, the animals are not here to try out in a very cruel, torturous way that our beauty products are okay for us to use.

If you are feeling anxious and hopeless after this post and want to throw everything out of your bathroom and beauty bag… I feel you! Because we don’t like stress either for our skin, start by cleaning your routine step by step. Start by saying no to cosmetic brands that are not cruelty-free and have fragrance in them, which is in my opinion the most concerning cosmetic ingredient. There is no benefit of fragrance for the skin at all and since the companies are under trade secret, we don’t know what is lurching under the glamorous “fragrance/parfum”. It is important to do some re-search about the company you are about to support as a consumer.

For my research I enjoyed reading the book “No More Dirty Looks” by Siobhan O’Connor ( I found it hard to put down when it was time to go to sleep!) The documentary “Stink!” about fragrance ingredient on Netflix is good to watch. I downloaded app “Think Dirty” that educates me of the ingredients of a beauty product when I am about to make a purchase (this app doesn’t recognize essential oils as harmful ingredient so just be aware of this). I also use Paula’s Choice Ingredient Dictionary and EWG Skin Deep.

If you have any questions or comments, I am happy to answer in the comments, through my email emma@lumousmakeup.com or on my Instagram @lumousmakeup

Bisous,

Emma / Lumous Makeup

Get Inspired with these Youtube Ladies by emma graef

Hello my dear reader, 

I am pretty new when it comes to the world of Youtube. Sure I have watched some pilates clips, funny dog or music video every now and then, but only during last two years it has become a weekly site to visit or let's be honest: daily! 

I wanted to share my two absolutely favorite makeup channels with you.

Jaclyn Hill 

During this past year Jaclyn Hill's career has exploded. She has millions of subscribes and fans, has her own makeup product (Champagne Pop with Becca) and I have heard rumors about her own up-and-coming makeup line! When I am watching her channel, it's not just about getting inspired or hearing if some lipstick is worth buying. It makes me very excited every time I see a new video waiting for me, Jaclyn is so lovable, bubbly and energetic. Jaclyn's look are very bold to me, but instead of wanting to copy some of her looks, she offers new ideas and inspiration. And whenever I need to run to Sephora to get a new makeup product, I can always blame Jaclyn to my husband! You have been warned, your wallet will get lighter after seeing a couple of Jaclyn's videos!

 

Lisa Eldridge 

Lisa is a very known professional in the fashion world. I almost want to get a magnifying glass while watching her videos, I want to know every detail of how she applies those products. Today I saw a video with Rosie Huntigton-Whiteley and one of the comments said it very well of how Lisa is truly like an artist and how "she doesn't apply makeup, she literally just feathers it on." I love the makeup looks she creates. They are about a natural glow and emphasizing your best features instead of hiding with a heavy hand your "flaws." She makes applying makeup look very simple, easy and fast, even with more dramatic looks. And that British charm truly works. 

 

Enjoy!

 

Bisous,

Emma

Q & A by emma graef

There are hundreds and hundreds of makeup artists in your area, so how will you find The One for your wedding or another important event ? The one with whom you don't feel like to check yourself from the mirror after every brush stroke? Here are questions you should be prepared to ask your potential makeup artist with my answers below. 

Makeups by me for Jennifer's wedding on October 2016 in New York City

Makeups by me for Jennifer's wedding on October 2016 in New York City

I can do my own makeup, why would I hire you?

The makeup artist is there to make the event even more memorable, glamorous and relaxed. You can be quite nervous on your wedding day and you don't want to have a meltdown while trying to master the eyeliner or hide dark circles after restless sleep. On my own wedding day, one of the most memorable moments was getting ready, talking with my sisters and other family members. My makeup for you will last through the emotional, long day in whatever climate condition. Since I have worked in countless photoshoots, I know how to create a look that looks as perfect in the photos as in nature. 

Also imagine all the inspirations, ideas, new tricks, knowledge and product recommendations you will learn while spending time with the professional! 

I am talented and I love my job. I love meeting brides-to-be and planning the look for them according to their style and wishes. One of the best ways to me to spend a weekend is at work! 

Are you a professional makeup artist?  

Yes. I graduated 2010 from International Makeup Center in Helsinki, Finland, that followed an internship with fashion and wedding makeup artist Jenny Jansson and in "Make Up Store", where I got important experience of giving makeup lessons and creating event makeups for women of every culture and age. After moving to Switzerland I had the honor to participate in a team of Christophe Durand, who also provided education while working in his salon Le Bal des Créateurs. While still occasionally modeling, I get to meet incredible talents in the industry who provides me inspiration and product comparisons. On my free-time I follow the latest trends and new products coming to the market to keep my kit as good and up-to-date as possible. 

Is this your first time doing wedding makeup? 

Though we all have to start somewhere, I have created the looks for many weddings in my career. I worked in Hair Salon Tangle (Salo, Finland) for wedding clients during summers 2011 and 2014. In New York clients have found me through Thumbtack and verbal recommendations. I also work for weddings through a beauty team Face Time Beauty

What is your signature look that you love to create? 

The most important part of the makeup for me is the skin. I will create skin that is glowing and flawless with a skin texture that still remains natural and breathable. This I do using latest techniques in brush knowledge and by defining the client's skin undertone to find the most flattering colors. Light contouring and highlighting is a must to bring out your most beautiful features. To answer the question, my signature look is fresh, natural, clean and polished, with your most striking feature -- that is, maybe brows, lips, eyelashes, catching the eyes. 

But I want a dramatic look. Do you recommend it?

How is your every day makeup like? Or do you normally take it up a notch to your look for the parties? Or maybe you are just curious how different you would look with a more dramatic look? Winged eyeliner, bright lips and soft, seductive smokey-eyes are always a great choice to request from a professional and I love doing those looks as well! Sometimes a natural, romantic look is just not the best option, so we need some black kajal pencil and bold lips! Regardless, I love makeup and to get creative with it. My dream request from a client would be to create a makeup that flatters her and that is inspired from some of the latest runway show. 

What brands do you use?

I like MAC Cosmetics, Makeup Forever, Nars, Urban Decay, Laura Mercier, Clinique, Makeup Store... I choose the products by their pigment, quality, ingredients, durability and how they work in photographs. The products I will use on your skin will be decided by your skin type.

Do you travel to me on my wedding day and for trial?  

Yes I travel to you. I am based In Beacon, New York. Depending on your event location and the number of makeups performed, a travel fee may be added. 

When should a bride book her pre-wedding trial? Is the trial recommended?

Book your makeup artist 6-9 months before your wedding day, the sooner, the safer! I recommend the trial to be 3-6 weeks before the wedding. By then you probably have an idea if you wear silver or gold jewelry, what your hair style going to be like and most importantly, what your dress looks like. Furthermore, on the trial you will have the same level of tanning as on your wedding day and the colors and shades chosen will be perfect.

The trial ensures that the vision between you and your makeup artist align. The "natural" look so many brides want can be understood in many ways! The trial decreases the stress by giving you confidence in your makeup artist on the wedding day (and also saves time, when the artist already knows exactly the products to use!). 

How big of a wedding party can you accommodate and how long does it take the makeup to be completed?

If the wedding party is more than five ladies, I would ask one of my professional makeup artist partners to join me. I book one hour for the bride and 30-45 minutes for others in need of makeup. 

Are you comfortable working with all ethnicities?

Absolutely! I have had the joy to work with all ethnicities. 

Do you offer airbrush or traditional foundation or both? 

At the moment I only offer traditional application. Personally I love working with brushes and choose the right products for my client's skin type. With the latest brush techniques and products the result can be 'poreless', even, and and as covering as needed. I have gotten my sense of style and education in Europe, where airbrush is not requested. Airbrush is not also the best choice for every skin type. Often people think it is the best choice for a bad skin, but airbrush can not even out your skin to perfection (only airbrushing in photoshop can!) Airbrush works best on already very even and "normal" skin type, since it is very thin. It is used a lot on tv-sets and for some actors on red carpet. 

Where can I see your prices and portfolio?

On my website www.lumousmakeup.com 

What does the makeup include? Do you add fake eyelashes?

Every makeup is a full-face makeup, every part necessary or wished to create the wanted look. It includes adding individual or full-line fake eyelashes (if wanted). I like to use House of Lashes or Velour Lashes, since they look very natural and the hair is high-quality and fluffy. 

 

If there are any other question or booking request in your mind, do no hesitate to add it on the comment box or send me an email: emma@lumousmakeup.com

 

Bisous, 

Emma

 

 

 

 

Berryful by emma graef

..... And more new makeup product testing! 

One of my favorite makeup trends for this spring and summer was berryful lips. I see it as a bit more mature version of bright pink and fuchsia trend rolling still a year before. And as you can follow from Fall 2015 shows, berries are still on the lips this upcoming season. 

Looks from left to right: Trussardi, Dolce&Gabbana and No. 21, photo behind  this link . No. 21 is my favorite with lips that look like applied care-freely by finger, from a bowl of juice berries or the color would be bitten through the lips!

Looks from left to right: Trussardi, Dolce&Gabbana and No. 21, photo behind this link. No. 21 is my favorite with lips that look like applied care-freely by finger, from a bowl of juice berries or the color would be bitten through the lips!

I've found many makeup artist during a couple of season describing their looks as girls had applied them by them self (as on No. 21 look above) or that they had woken up like that after a good party. But I guess a good makeup artist sees where he smudges look the best. ;)

My favorites (on top of my bible) for berryful lips, both from  Bite Beauty ,  High Pigment Pencil  color  Violet  (well yes, it's very violet, not actually that berry. But still very cool and creamy.) and  Lush Lip Tint  color  Raspberry .

My favorites (on top of my bible) for berryful lips, both from Bite BeautyHigh Pigment Pencil color Violet (well yes, it's very violet, not actually that berry. But still very cool and creamy.) and Lush Lip Tint color Raspberry.

About new products to test. I was very hopeful for DiorSkin Nude Air Serum SPF 20. Many promising words in that name! Serum refers to curative effect and SPF to maintaining younger looking skin and protection. (Though SPF is not suitable for studio photo shoots or events where you're gonna have your photo taken with a flash. SPF foundations can create white zebra spots in the photos.) I poured the foundation on my palette and it was like water coming out of the jar. Extra fluid, I see. I experienced right away the heartbreaking feeling of a foundation waste. I tapped light spots on top of my nose, cheeks, chin and fore head and started tapping and spreading with Shiseido round foundation brush. The texture felt very special! Like spreading oil on your skin. It worked well on my cheeks, but it was catastrophic on t-zone, specially on the nose where the foundation revealed sharply how dry my skin is on the surface. Trying to make it better with fingers and warming the foundation up just made it worse. I ended up swiping the foundation of from t-zone and adding Lush Celestial face cream. After letting it absorb into my skin I gently applied trustworthy foundation (Lancôme Teint Miracle) to safe the daySo as a summary, Dior Nude Air Serum is not for me, but maybe it creates sheer complexion for you, if you're not in need of more than light-medium coverage.

That' all. 

 

Bisous

Emma

 

Recovering From Teenage Years makeup Traumas by emma graef

When I think about my teenage years "style", I feel so proud of myself. Not because I looked so classy back then, but how much my style has developed since!

I had a style face with black kajal and studs. Then I saw Shakira and I wanted my hair be as blond, surfy and curly as hers. I combined this with LOTS of black mascara, light pink or golden eyeshadow and white waterline kajal. I rounded my eyes with black pen, like a panda. It included desperate efforts of learning flirty cat-eyeliner. I also had an issue that my nose is too big, so I tried to make it look smaller by contouring around it. Unfortunately I hadn't heard about blending. I also believed that the more darker or bright color I paint my lips, the more smaller my nose looks. As a teenager I prefered glossy result to matte. The amount of ligloss I had on my lips… Combine all this together. Yikes!

Anyway, inspired by spring RTW14 catwalk looks, today I felt ready. Ready to give light pink eyeshadow, snow-white kajal and lipgloss combination another try.

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What is different on 2014 to 2002? I didn't actually have light pink eyeshadow in my kit. I used my light pink blush instead. I made sure to blend it well, towards my eyebrows and the sides. I rimmed my eyes with white kajal pen, not forgetting the lower waterlines. I curles my lashes and add brown mascara just on the top lashes, concentrating on the outer corners.

Model at Giles ss14RTW

Also compared to when I was 14-years old, now I don't have weird plucked lines as eyebrows.. I didn't manage to find my usual taupe-colored Make Up Store's pen for my eyebrow, so I used copper colored MAC kajal pen instead. I drew the lines and the shape with the pen and softened with a clean mascara brush. I filled the gaps with Anastasia's blond-colored eyebrow powder. My eyebrows tend to hang downwards, so almost always I finish with Kiko's colored eyebrow gel.

I colored my lips with Kiko's soft light pink lip pencil and tapped peach colored lip gloss in the middle

When I was 14-years old, I didn't mind if the makeup hid my freckles. With freckled skin there is basically two choices: to cover them completely or use as light foundation as possible. Otherwise the freckles come through the foundation as gray spots! Today I used Dior's Nude Glow foundation mixed with skin serum by Lumene. I blended it on my skin with beauty blender sponge by Sephora, which is AMAZING. Highly recommended.

I hid my red areas around the nose and dark circles around the eyes. I did contouring with MAC's Cream Color Base: I added a spot just below my cheek bone and blended towards my ears. As a blush, I used creamy coral colored one from Forever21.

Finally I added MAC's Mineralize Skinfinish with a MAC's Duo Fibre Face Brush. It has shimmer in it, so though I added it pretty care-freely around my face, I concentrated on my cheekbones and the centre of the forehead. The last light to my makeup was MAC's Beauty Powder, color Play it Proper that besides the cheek bones I brushed below and above the highest point of my eyebrows. And no makeup is finished without a squirt or two of MAC's Fix+.

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The key-products of the makeup, from top row left: MAC's beauty powder, Makeup Store blush "Sugar Muffin", Pieces pink hair chalk, MAC's Fix+, Kiko's Extra Volume lipgloss, Forever 21 Créme Blush, MAC's Mineralize Skinfinish shade "Soft and Gentle", Kiko's lip pencil shade 604 and kajal with black and white sides from Bonjour.

My treasure-box!

One trauma defeated! I wonder if I also could beat my fear against light blue eyeshadow..?

Bad Girls by emma graef

When I do mine or my client's makeup, I give a lot of attention to create perfect, luminous, contoured, glowing skin. Next important part is the eyebrows: will the result look more interesting with shaped, but natural eyebrows, with bleached ones or maybe with ones borrowed from Cara Delevingne?

Then comes the eyes and lips, the ones with what you can really play and express your personality. Sounds more interesting and fun, but putting strong eye -or lip makeup next to un-even skin, that is just decreasing the effect of the catch of the makeup. You can only built strong on strong base!

I had long period, when I loved nude, natural makeup on myself, just after I had graduaded from my makeup school. This is understandable when during my school time I could go out wearing dark blue smokey eyes with red eyebrows..

But now I'm also all thrilled again for colors and textures that screams for attitude and what you can actully see on your face. Every time I draw black waterliners, I'm instantly much cooler. Yeah.. Keep repeating that.

Spring 2014 RTW showed us signs of boredom to the natural looking models. This year is after all about showing you personality. All these houses wanted the models to look like they've been partying, having the best night ever and woke up the next morning on a beach, still looking gorgeous.

Erdem by James Kaliardos

Versace by Pat McGrath. The makeup artist reminded on style.com how this is a natural look from Versace. They are only using half a line of fake eyelashes and light-colored lips!

Jonathan Saunders by Lucia Pieroni

Topshop Unique Hannah Murray

Attend a party or go and have a coffee while rocking out these makeup looks and people will know you didn't come there to knit your heart out..

SS14 Looks: Attention-Lips and White Eyeshadow's Comeback by emma graef

I've been all shh shh on this blog for a guilty amount of time. I love writing and all my energy has gone to my Finnish blog about model life. Now it's time to give some attention to inspirations too!

Even if it always doesn't feel like it by the weather, spring is here and if living your life by fashion seasons, it has been here for a while already. It is definitely time to report you all the looks seen on catwalk for the season Spring/Summer 2014!

What I love most about this current season and specially the coming season Autumn/WInter15 is the expression of individuality. There were looks for everybody: for natural look-lovers, for bad girls, interesting color choices and shapes, looks that reminded more traditional beauty makeup than runway look..

Today I want to concentrate on looks that gave attention to the lips and also for a look that I haven't done for myself since I was 14-years-old or for stage makeup.. White eyeshadow!

White eyelids were strutting on catwalk on Ralph Lauren. The collection itself was a bit judged, not many other designers showed that 60's mood. The makeup artist Tom Pecheux told on style.com how he was inspired by Twiggy and Jane Birkin. If looking at Ralph Lauren's previous seasons, the makeup is not very shocking or surprising indeed.Senior Beauty Editor Amber Kallor was surprised enough after seeing mascara on upper and lower lashes. Shocking!

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Backstage of Ralph Lauren with makeup artist Tom Pecheux

To create the look inspired by Ralph Lauren's backstage:

Base your eyelids with foundation. Tap snow-white matt eyeshadow until the crease of the lid. Make the eyes brighter by adding the white eyeshadow also the inside corner of the eye. If you like, make your eyes bigger by adding matte beige eyeshadow in the crease. Blend well, but make sure the eyelids stay white. Define the eye with white kajal. Curl the lashes and add a layer of black mascara, on both upper and lower lashes. Let it dry and add another one. As many as you dare!

Make your skin even by a foundation suitable of your skin type. My new favorite is to add it with beauty blender sponge, but Shiseido's round foundation brush never fails either. Hide the spots and red ares by the nose by tapping the concealer on the trouble area. Don't spread it back and forth, it only makes the concealer thinner and more see-through, not actually doing it's job. To attack the dark eye-circles that already-mentioned beauty blender sponge is a killer!

Add loose powder on your t-zone and contour your face lightly. Start spreading the powdery color under the cheekbones towards the ears. As you can see from the backstage picture, contouring is very light. Choose powdery, light pink blush.

Brush your eyebrows upward, you can choose to help some eyebrow gel or spray some hairspray on clean mascara brush.

The lips on this look are balmy, more fresh looking than on traditional 60's inspired makeup. Tap a berry-pink color on your lips with your finger. I like Bite's Raspberry.

Backstage from Altuzarra, also by Tom Pecheux

Altuzarra has been on NY fashion weeks only for five years and it is a show to watch. Tom Pecheux was the makeup artist also behind this look, but even that both in Ralph Lauren and with Altuzarra the white eyeshadow was on spot, the looks spirits are completely different. Altuzarra's look is more adult, more woman. It might remind you of Snow White, but with right kind of hair look and choice of clothes this look can be flattering and of course, very trendy.

To create Altuzarra-inspired makeup:

Prepare your eyelids with a thin layer of foundation or eyebase product. Add a small amount of loose powder. Choose a matte white eyeshadow and spread it with a natural brush on it's place. Make the color most intense until the crease of the lid and blend the color until all the corners of the eye. You can see the shape well on the pictures. The white color just below the highest point of the eyebrow makes the shape of it more lifted and shaped. Add just one layer of mascara on upper lashes. You can avoid the mascara stains on your lid by spreading the mascara against a spoon, business card, Sephora's lash comb..

Make your skin even with a foundation suitable for your skin. I like to add a drop of skin serum on the foundation to make it treating and SPF is a must-requirement. Add concealer and hide dark eyecircles if needed (look more spesific tips from RL's look) Secure the skin products with loose powder, concentrating on t-zone. Make a light contouring underneath your cheek bones. Add some more shape by adding highlight product on the highest points of your cheeck bones. I like MAC's Mineralize Skinfiinish and their creamy products. If the highlight product has some light-pink color in it, just better because the lack of blush.

This looks requires well-treated lips that you can ensure with lip balming. Before starting the lip-makeup, wipe the balm away, this result needs to be matte. Start by tapping foundation on your lips. Use a red lipliner, start on the cupid's arch and blending the color towards the middle. Choose a bright red, matte lipstick. MAC's China Red is a classic. Take a slice of it and place it on the back of your hand, mix it a bit: this way the color comes more intense than taking with a brush straight from the tube. Spread the color from the back of your hand on your lips. Start by defining teh cupid's arch with the brush, then from the middle, going towards the sides.Take a thin piece of paper and bite it with your lips, then add another layer of lipstick. Set your piece of paper again on your lips and tap loose powder through it on your lips with a clean natural brush. These lips last long!

Brush your eyebrows upwards and fill the holes with eyebrow pen or powdery product. Anastasia has a impressive selection. Keep the brows natural looking.

My favorite trick is in the end of makeup to fix it with MAC's Fix+ -spray. Close your eyes, stretch out your arm, aim to your face and press two times. Open your eyes, but squint them for a moment that the mascara won't spread on white eyelids. Fix+ makes the makeup last and blends the powdery and creamy products well together.

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Backstage of Helmut Lang by makeup artist Hannah Murray

Bold lips were also seen with Helmut Lang, who charmed the crowd with 90's wibe. Not by approaching it with grunge look, but more sophisticated road. Makeup artist Hannah Murray choose brownish-red lipstick. She didn't spread it as technically as on the backstage of Altuzarra, the result was wanted to be more natural next to well-shaped clothes. The trick on these lips was more dark color lipliner than the lipstick, blended towards the center.

Spring/Summer 2014 was full of lovely looks, there is more tips and tutorials from me to come to get inspired and express yourself!

Photos by style.com

Alice & Olivia by emma graef

My Pinterest starts to get too full on category "La Mode" with beautiful Fall RTW 2013 pictures. It's time to share my thoughts!

The first "I want that. And that. And that. And this one." -collection, Alicia+Olivia, is something I bumbed into first time just last season. It's absolutely perfect. It's cool, interesting with all the different textiles and coloring, and the spirit is creepy enough for me..

The whole set in this fall 2013 collection is inspiring and very cool. Lately I've been very familiar creating look book for collections as a model and as a makeup artist and I love the process and the planning to bring the spirit of the designer alive. In here the blue fireplace, roses and the chandelier creates a fairytale athmosphere for the clothes. The gold-red chair on the corner makes me think the models as a modern cool princesses from Scotland.

The key-point inthe makeupare the lips that matches perfectly with the roses. To create these gothic lips, after adding lightly some foundation on the lips as a base, I would use a sharpened black kajal pen as a lip liner, and smooth the color towards the center of the lips. Make sure the black color is more visible in the outer corner of the lips and very light on the cupid's arc. After this fill the lips with red lipstick, that turns a bit into borwn and reminds you of red roses. (e.g.g Survivor from Makeup Store)

To make the lips look even better, it needs an even, fair and matt skin. My new favorite with a perfect shade for fair skin is Dior's Nude Glow. Base your face with you face cream andtapthe foundation into it's place with foundation brush. Use fridgered spoons to even your eye-puffiness (such a cliche technique, but it works!) and hide the dark circles and red spots on the face carefully. My favorite for dark circles around the eyes is Makeup Store's Reflect Cover (also a great base for eye makeup) because it hydrates the skin as it evens the coloring.

For sculpting the face I love MAC's creamy Pure Sculpture. Swipe your middle finger in the pot and draw a line with the finger just beneath your cheek bones. Just like making an Indian mask! Smooth the color a teenytiny bit upwards, following your cheek bone and also down-wards. Fingers work very well with creamy products, but I also like Shiseido's round foundation brush. Now smile and on the highest point of your cheeks, on those little cute balls, tap a little bit some creamy light pink blush. (i.e., Une's Breezy Cheeks Blush shade B02) To make the effect even more impressive, use creamy highlight color, like MAC's Pro Sculpting Cream shade Accentuate. Tap the color on the cheek bone and smooth towards the ears.

Et voila, you have cheekbones to cut the glass with!

So instead of my Pinterest account let me fill this blog with all the gorgeous outfits!


So simple, elegant and fun at the same time. I looove the zebra bag. Zebras are the new skulls?

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Green fake-fur jacket will be on my list for next fall

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This picture made me fall in love with long boots with shorts skirts with a bit of leg showing! And shocking, skin not covered in black stockings.