Get Inspired with these Youtube Ladies by emma graef

Hello my dear reader, 

I am pretty new when it comes to the world of Youtube. Sure I have watched some pilates clips, funny dog or music video every now and then, but only during last two years it has become a weekly site to visit or let's be honest: daily! 

I wanted to share my two absolutely favorite makeup channels with you.

Jaclyn Hill 

During this past year Jaclyn Hill's career has exploded. She has millions of subscribes and fans, has her own makeup product (Champagne Pop with Becca) and I have heard rumors about her own up-and-coming makeup line! When I am watching her channel, it's not just about getting inspired or hearing if some lipstick is worth buying. It makes me very excited every time I see a new video waiting for me, Jaclyn is so lovable, bubbly and energetic. Jaclyn's look are very bold to me, but instead of wanting to copy some of her looks, she offers new ideas and inspiration. And whenever I need to run to Sephora to get a new makeup product, I can always blame Jaclyn to my husband! You have been warned, your wallet will get lighter after seeing a couple of Jaclyn's videos!

 

Lisa Eldridge 

Lisa is a very known professional in the fashion world. I almost want to get a magnifying glass while watching her videos, I want to know every detail of how she applies those products. Today I saw a video with Rosie Huntigton-Whiteley and one of the comments said it very well of how Lisa is truly like an artist and how "she doesn't apply makeup, she literally just feathers it on." I love the makeup looks she creates. They are about a natural glow and emphasizing your best features instead of hiding with a heavy hand your "flaws." She makes applying makeup look very simple, easy and fast, even with more dramatic looks. And that British charm truly works. 

 

Enjoy!

 

Bisous,

Emma

Q & A by emma graef

There are hundreds and hundreds of makeup artists in your area, so how will you find The One for your wedding or another important event ? The one with whom you don't feel like to check yourself from the mirror after every brush stroke? Here are questions you should be prepared to ask your potential makeup artist with my answers below. 

 Makeups by me for Jennifer's wedding on October 2016 in New York City

Makeups by me for Jennifer's wedding on October 2016 in New York City

I can do my own makeup, why would I hire you?

The makeup artist is there to make the event even more memorable, glamorous and relaxed. You can be quite nervous on your wedding day and you don't want to have a meltdown while trying to master the eyeliner or hide dark circles after restless sleep. On my own wedding day, one of the most memorable moments was getting ready, talking with my sisters and other family members. My makeup for you will last through the emotional, long day in whatever climate condition. Since I have worked in countless photoshoots, I know how to create a look that looks as perfect in the photos as in nature. 

Also imagine all the inspirations, ideas, new tricks, knowledge and product recommendations you will learn while spending time with the professional! 

I am talented and I love my job. I love meeting brides-to-be and planning the look for them according to their style and wishes. One of the best ways to me to spend a weekend is at work! 

Are you a professional makeup artist?  

Yes. I graduated 2010 from International Makeup Center in Helsinki, Finland, that followed an internship with fashion and wedding makeup artist Jenny Jansson and in "Make Up Store", where I got important experience of giving makeup lessons and creating event makeups for women of every culture and age. After moving to Switzerland I had the honor to participate in a team of Christophe Durand, who also provided education while working in his salon Le Bal des Créateurs. While still occasionally modeling, I get to meet incredible talents in the industry who provides me inspiration and product comparisons. On my free-time I follow the latest trends and new products coming to the market to keep my kit as good and up-to-date as possible. 

Is this your first time doing wedding makeup? 

Though we all have to start somewhere, I have created the looks for many weddings in my career. I worked in Hair Salon Tangle (Salo, Finland) for wedding clients during summers 2011 and 2014. In New York clients have found me through Thumbtack and verbal recommendations. I also work for weddings through a beauty team Face Time Beauty

What is your signature look that you love to create? 

The most important part of the makeup for me is the skin. I will create skin that is glowing and flawless with a skin texture that still remains natural and breathable. This I do using latest techniques in brush knowledge and by defining the client's skin undertone to find the most flattering colors. Light contouring and highlighting is a must to bring out your most beautiful features. To answer the question, my signature look is fresh, natural, clean and polished, with your most striking feature -- that is, maybe brows, lips, eyelashes, catching the eyes. 

But I want a dramatic look. Do you recommend it?

How is your every day makeup like? Or do you normally take it up a notch to your look for the parties? Or maybe you are just curious how different you would look with a more dramatic look? Winged eyeliner, bright lips and soft, seductive smokey-eyes are always a great choice to request from a professional and I love doing those looks as well! Sometimes a natural, romantic look is just not the best option, so we need some black kajal pencil and bold lips! Regardless, I love makeup and to get creative with it. My dream request from a client would be to create a makeup that flatters her and that is inspired from some of the latest runway show. 

What brands do you use?

I like MAC Cosmetics, Makeup Forever, Nars, Urban Decay, Laura Mercier, Clinique, Makeup Store... I choose the products by their pigment, quality, ingredients, durability and how they work in photographs. The products I will use on your skin will be decided by your skin type.

Do you travel to me on my wedding day and for trial?  

Yes I travel to you. I am based In Beacon, New York. Depending on your event location and the number of makeups performed, a travel fee may be added. 

When should a bride book her pre-wedding trial? Is the trial recommended?

Book your makeup artist 6-9 months before your wedding day, the sooner, the safer! I recommend the trial to be 3-6 weeks before the wedding. By then you probably have an idea if you wear silver or gold jewelry, what your hair style going to be like and most importantly, what your dress looks like. Furthermore, on the trial you will have the same level of tanning as on your wedding day and the colors and shades chosen will be perfect.

The trial ensures that the vision between you and your makeup artist align. The "natural" look so many brides want can be understood in many ways! The trial decreases the stress by giving you confidence in your makeup artist on the wedding day (and also saves time, when the artist already knows exactly the products to use!). 

How big of a wedding party can you accommodate and how long does it take the makeup to be completed?

If the wedding party is more than five ladies, I would ask one of my professional makeup artist partners to join me. I book one hour for the bride and 30-45 minutes for others in need of makeup. 

Are you comfortable working with all ethnicities?

Absolutely! I have had the joy to work with all ethnicities. 

Do you offer airbrush or traditional foundation or both? 

At the moment I only offer traditional application. Personally I love working with brushes and choose the right products for my client's skin type. With the latest brush techniques and products the result can be 'poreless', even, and and as covering as needed. I have gotten my sense of style and education in Europe, where airbrush is not requested. Airbrush is not also the best choice for every skin type. Often people think it is the best choice for a bad skin, but airbrush can not even out your skin to perfection (only airbrushing in photoshop can!) Airbrush works best on already very even and "normal" skin type, since it is very thin. It is used a lot on tv-sets and for some actors on red carpet. 

Where can I see your prices and portfolio?

On my website www.lumousmakeup.com 

What does the makeup include? Do you add fake eyelashes?

Every makeup is a full-face makeup, every part necessary or wished to create the wanted look. It includes adding individual or full-line fake eyelashes (if wanted). I like to use House of Lashes or Velour Lashes, since they look very natural and the hair is high-quality and fluffy. 

 

If there are any other question or booking request in your mind, do no hesitate to add it on the comment box or send me an email: emma@lumousmakeup.com

 

Bisous, 

Emma

 

 

 

 

Berryful by emma graef

..... And more new makeup product testing! 

One of my favorite makeup trends for this spring and summer was berryful lips. I see it as a bit more mature version of bright pink and fuchsia trend rolling still a year before. And as you can follow from Fall 2015 shows, berries are still on the lips this upcoming season. 

 Looks from left to right: Trussardi, Dolce&Gabbana and No. 21, photo behind  this link . No. 21 is my favorite with lips that look like applied care-freely by finger, from a bowl of juice berries or the color would be bitten through the lips!

Looks from left to right: Trussardi, Dolce&Gabbana and No. 21, photo behind this link. No. 21 is my favorite with lips that look like applied care-freely by finger, from a bowl of juice berries or the color would be bitten through the lips!

I've found many makeup artist during a couple of season describing their looks as girls had applied them by them self (as on No. 21 look above) or that they had woken up like that after a good party. But I guess a good makeup artist sees where he smudges look the best. ;)

 My favorites (on top of my bible) for berryful lips, both from  Bite Beauty ,  High Pigment Pencil  color  Violet  (well yes, it's very violet, not actually that berry. But still very cool and creamy.) and  Lush Lip Tint  color  Raspberry .

My favorites (on top of my bible) for berryful lips, both from Bite BeautyHigh Pigment Pencil color Violet (well yes, it's very violet, not actually that berry. But still very cool and creamy.) and Lush Lip Tint color Raspberry.

About new products to test. I was very hopeful for DiorSkin Nude Air Serum SPF 20. Many promising words in that name! Serum refers to curative effect and SPF to maintaining younger looking skin and protection. (Though SPF is not suitable for studio photo shoots or events where you're gonna have your photo taken with a flash. SPF foundations can create white zebra spots in the photos.) I poured the foundation on my palette and it was like water coming out of the jar. Extra fluid, I see. I experienced right away the heartbreaking feeling of a foundation waste. I tapped light spots on top of my nose, cheeks, chin and fore head and started tapping and spreading with Shiseido round foundation brush. The texture felt very special! Like spreading oil on your skin. It worked well on my cheeks, but it was catastrophic on t-zone, specially on the nose where the foundation revealed sharply how dry my skin is on the surface. Trying to make it better with fingers and warming the foundation up just made it worse. I ended up swiping the foundation of from t-zone and adding Lush Celestial face cream. After letting it absorb into my skin I gently applied trustworthy foundation (Lancôme Teint Miracle) to safe the daySo as a summary, Dior Nude Air Serum is not for me, but maybe it creates sheer complexion for you, if you're not in need of more than light-medium coverage.

That' all. 

 

Bisous

Emma

 

Everyday-Look vs. The Evening Look by emma graef

As a model I learned how to leave an apartment in 10minutes, with the least amount of makeup products applied on my face as possible. People who cast a model for a shoot are interested of seeing a girl as an empty canvas. Some days I enjoy a dark smudgy eye or seductive cat-liner, but usually the everyday-look is nothing more than what you see above. 

Glowing, natural looking skin with a fresh looking texture is number one result for me. After comes defined, upwards-brushed "bushy" eyebrows, which frames the face and gives a nice Tomboy-touch. My kit-must product for brows is Makeup Forever Aqua Brow that I use in shade 25. Though I keep looking at Givenchy's SS15 catwalk makeup and model Anna Ewers' lovely face, bleached eyebrows has that beautiful sun-kissed vibe (or alien) going on. Makes me wanna blond my hair again! 

Lips on the picture above are carrying one of my favorite lip product Smashbox O-Plump that in addition to shine gives a little swell and color to your lips. 

 

 The everyday look needs a pinch of color to look fresh. I used  Urban Decay Naked 2-palette  shade "Half Baked" sweeping back-and-forth on my crease of the eyelid, then blending with care using "Bootycall" on my brow bone. Cheeks got shape and color (besides of cold air outside), from  MAC Blush Cream  shade "Lilicent." Foundation is one of my favorite,  Lancôme's Teint Miracle,  that gives light to medium coverage.

The everyday look needs a pinch of color to look fresh. I used Urban Decay Naked 2-palette shade "Half Baked" sweeping back-and-forth on my crease of the eyelid, then blending with care using "Bootycall" on my brow bone. Cheeks got shape and color (besides of cold air outside), from MAC Blush Cream shade "Lilicent." Foundation is one of my favorite, Lancôme's Teint Miracle, that gives light to medium coverage.

So here we are with the second look that I made when two of our friends came to dinner and for a bit of whisky and wine. I can tell you, the more I added, the more uncomfortable I became. I guess I wasn't on my more is more -days. On eyes I used Make Up Store's black cake eyeliner and again Urban Decay's palette shades "Half Baked" (have I told you it's my favorite for everything?) and on the outer corner of the eyes and crease of the eyelid shade "Pistol." But I gotta inform you, the Givenchy's Phenomen'Eyes Effect mascara (see the previous post) did a lot better job since I tried it on last time! I believe this product just needs a bit of getting-used-to, very well done eyelash-curling and long swipes with it's special brush from the beginning to the end of a lash. 

The contouring is one of my favorite parts doing makeup. It gives an instant change, lift and more color. My favorite products are MAC's Pure Sculpture cream for under the cheek bones applied with fingers and MAC's Beauty Powder shade "Play it Proper" on the highest point of the cheek bones. On this look I used the same MAC Blush Cream "Lilicent" as in the first look, that is a pretty safe choice if you don't know beforehand which lipstick you're gonna use.  

On lips I have Make Up Store's shade "Crown." I'm on a mission trying to find strong contestant for it. (I think upcoming MAC's Cinderella collection's lipstick "Royal Ball" looks pretty promising!)

 

        

 

 

 

So what are your thoughts? Do you believe an event has a need for a certain makeup? Could you choose to go for a night-with-friends without mascara or does the magic of applying your favorite products give an extra boost for the night? Does cat eyeliner only go with your party dress or also on your grocery store trips? 

 

The photos are all un-edited, taken in a sunlight coming from my attic window. 

 

Bisous

Emma

Makeup Products in Test by emma graef

Lumous Makeup has landed in USA! Now when settled on this side of the world, I'm excited to give a lot of attention to this makeup blog. 

My first purchase after landing to Newark airport was Urban Decay's Naked 2- eyeshadow palette, which is in every makeup artist's kit for creating the best nude eyes. I am also hunting the best foundation out there. Many makeup artist swears after Makeup Forever's Face and Body, but before carrying those jars in the counter of Sephora, I'm gonna do some research. Today's foundation is Bare Minerals Bare Skin Pure Brightening Serum Broad Spectrum spf 20 Foundation, (now that's a name) which I was curious about because of the word "serum" in it, which means promises of skin care. Also a product without a SPF on my fair skin would be an absolutely no-no. Third product in test is Givenchy Phenomen'Eyes Effet Extension mascara. Let's talk about the results with a help of pictures.

 Urban Decay NAKED -palette. I used  Foxy  for priming with the foundation,  Half Baked  in the outer corners of the eyes blending with  Suspect  that I brushed from lash line to mid lid and finally  Snake Bite  on lower lash line. 

Urban Decay NAKED -palette. I used Foxy for priming with the foundation, Half Baked in the outer corners of the eyes blending with Suspect that I brushed from lash line to mid lid and finally Snake Bite on lower lash line. 

The result against mid-day sunlight coming out of the window, without any photo editing. 

My skin used to be until lately dry and sensitive, but now is in a state of much spots on the T-zone. I'm from Finland which usually means that the skin type is thin, which comes out as uneven skin tone and sensitivity. My wings of the nose are red and circles around my eyes nearly dark blue even after a good night sleep. A month ago I changed from rich face creams into oil-free face cream from Neutrogena. This new skin-problem combined with freckles can be problematic , because you don't wanna cover the freckles, but you want enough cover to hide all the skin-tone differences and impurities. Bare Minerals foundation is aboslutely superbe! I tapped and spread it in place with Shiseido's round foundation brush (highly recommended) and it glided on my skin effortlessly creating quickly pretty beautiful and glowing result, don't you think? On spots, dark circles of the eyes and around nose I used concealer. I wouldn't buy this product though for every client use, because I feel mineral foundation is not a solution for a dry skin type.

On most makeup stores or counters you can first ask a sample right for your skin to to try at home! 

        

 

 

 

The Urban Decay Naked 2 Palette also worked just perfectly, as I predicted as a previous owner of Naked 1 -palette. The colors blend all well together and have enough pigment. Colors are glowing and doesn't give an impression of powder eyeshadow. Simply, this product should be in everyone's makeup bag. If you're a fan of more dramatic look, the black eyeshadow in the palette is the answer. Mine eyeliner in the picture was MAC's Fluidline shade Blactrack.

But if all products would work as promised, I wouldn't have any reason to write about. I had a lot of expectations for Givenchy Phenomen'Eyes Effet Extension mascara, but it ended up disapointing me. And it's not the most affordable product out there! I expected separated, long lashes, but the result was cakey and it didn't spread evenly on lashes. Even lash comb couldn't save the look. 

But. This is what I always think after just-opening a mascara. After letting it breath a week, or whatever magic it does, the experience is usually totally different. Also the brush is special, this might just need another try. 

        

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh one last thing. On Sping-Summer 2015 catwalks one of the trendy looks for hair was called "air-dryed texture." Good news, right! Though on my hair it doesn't mean that it would look catwalk-ready if I just let it air-dry after shower. Noup. Put it on low ponytail very quickly after seeing these photos. 

I hope this post was useful to you!

I'll be right back with the looks from SS2015 catwalk!

 

Bisous, 

Emma

 

 

Recovering From Teenage Years Traumas by emma graef

When I think about my teenage years "style", I feel so proud of myself. Not because I looked so classy back then, but how much my style has developed since!

I had a style face with black kajal and studs. Then I saw Shakira and I wanted my hair be as blond, surfy and curly as hers. I combined this with LOTS of black mascara, light pink or golden eyeshadow and white waterline kajal. I rounded my eyes with black pen, like a panda. It included desperate efforts of learning flirty cat-eyeliner. I also had an issue that my nose is too big, so I tried to make it look smaller by contouring around it. Unfortunately I hadn't heard about blending. I also believed that the more darker or bright color I paint my lips, the more smaller my nose looks. As a teenager I prefered glossy result to matte. The amount of ligloss I had on my lips.. Combine all this together. Jaiks.

Anyway, inspired by spring rtw14 catwalk looks, today I felt ready. Ready to give light pink eyeshadow, snow-white kajal and lipgloss combination another try.

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What is different on 2014 to 2002? I didn't actually have light pink eyeshadow in my kit. I used my light pink blush instead. I made sure to blend it well, towards my eyebrows and the sides. I rimmed my eyes with white kajal pen, not forgetting the lower waterlines. I curles my lashes and add brown mascara just on the top lashes, concentrating on the outer corners.

Model at Giles ss14RTW

Also compared to when I was 14-years old, now I don't have weird plucked lines as eyebrows.. I didn't manage to find my usual taupe-colored Make Up Store's pen for my eyebrow, so I used copper colored MAC kajal pen instead. I drew the lines and the shape with the pen and softened with a clean mascara brush. I filled the gaps with Anastasia's blond-colored eyebrow powder. My eyebrows tend to hang downwards, so almost always I finish with Kiko's colored eyebrow gel.

I colored my lips with Kiko's soft light pink lip pencil and tapped peach colored lip gloss in the middle.

I was wearing a forest-green skirt with a white tank-top. With a braid crown the result felt a bit too... Gnome! Pink hair chalk came to the rescue to make the look more urban.

When I was 14-years old, I didn't mind if the makeup hid my freckles. With freckled skin there is basically two choices: to cover them completely or use as light foundation as possible. Otherwise the freckles come through the foundation as gray spots! Today I used Dior's Nude Glow foundation mixed with skin serum by Lumene. I blended it on my skin with beauty blender sponge by Sephora, which is AMAZING. Highly recommended.

I hid my red areas around the nose and dark circles around the eyes. I did contouring with MAC's Cream Color Base: I added a spot just below my cheek bone and blended towards my ears. As a blush, I used creamy coral colored one from Forever21.

Finally I added MAC's Mineralize Skinfinish with a MAC's Duo Fibre Face Brush. It has shimmer in it, so though I added it pretty care-freely around my face, I concentrated on my cheekbones and the centre of the forehead. The last light to my makeup was MAC's Beauty Powder, color Play it Proper that besides the cheek bones I brushed below and above the highest point of my eyebrows. And no makeup is finished without a squirt or two of MAC's Fix+.

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The key-products of the makeup, from top row left: MAC's beauty powder, Makeup Store blush "Sugar Muffin", Pieces pink hair chalk, MAC's Fix+, Kiko's Extra Volume lipgloss, Forever 21 Créme Blush, MAC's Mineralize Skinfinish shade "Soft and Gentle", Kiko's lip pencil shade 604 and kajal with black and white sides from Bonjour.

My treasure-box!

One trauma defeated! I wonder if I also could beat my fear against light blue eyeshadow..?

Bad Girls by emma graef

When I do mine or my client's makeup, I give a lot of attention to create perfect, luminous, contoured, glowing skin. Next important part is the eyebrows: will the result look more interesting with shaped, but natural eyebrows, with bleached ones or maybe with ones borrowed from Cara Delevingne?

Then comes the eyes and lips, the ones with what you can really play and express your personality. Sounds more interesting and fun, but putting strong eye -or lip makeup next to un-even skin, that is just decreasing the effect of the catch of the makeup. You can only built strong on strong base!

I had long period, when I loved nude, natural makeup on myself, just after I had graduaded from my makeup school. This is understandable when during my school time I could go out wearing dark blue smokey eyes with red eyebrows..

But now I'm also all thrilled again for colors and textures that screams for attitude and what you can actully see on your face. Every time I draw black waterliners, I'm instantly much cooler. Yeah.. Keep repeating that.

Spring 2014 RTW showed us signs of boredom to the natural looking models. This year is after all about showing you personality. All these houses wanted the models to look like they've been partying, having the best night ever and woke up the next morning on a beach, still looking gorgeous.

Erdem by James Kaliardos

Versace by Pat McGrath. The makeup artist reminded on style.com how this is a natural look from Versace. They are only using half a line of fake eyelashes and light-colored lips!

Jonathan Saunders by Lucia Pieroni

Topshop Unique Hannah Murray

Attend a party or go and have a coffee while rocking out these makeup looks and people will know you didn't come there to knit your heart out..

SS14 Looks: Attention-Lips and White Eyeshadow's Comeback by emma graef

I've been all shh shh on this blog for a guilty amount of time. I love writing and all my energy has gone to my Finnish blog about model life. Now it's time to give some attention to inspirations too!

Even if it always doesn't feel like it by the weather, spring is here and if living your life by fashion seasons, it has been here for a while already. It is definitely time to report you all the looks seen on catwalk for the season Spring/Summer 2014!

What I love most about this current season and specially the coming season Autumn/WInter15 is the expression of individuality. There were looks for everybody: for natural look-lovers, for bad girls, interesting color choices and shapes, looks that reminded more traditional beauty makeup than runway look..

Today I want to concentrate on looks that gave attention to the lips and also for a look that I haven't done for myself since I was 14-years-old or for stage makeup.. White eyeshadow!

White eyelids were strutting on catwalk on Ralph Lauren. The collection itself was a bit judged, not many other designers showed that 60's mood. The makeup artist Tom Pecheux told on style.com how he was inspired by Twiggy and Jane Birkin. If looking at Ralph Lauren's previous seasons, the makeup is not very shocking or surprising indeed.Senior Beauty Editor Amber Kallor was surprised enough after seeing mascara on upper and lower lashes. Shocking!

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Backstage of Ralph Lauren with makeup artist Tom Pecheux

To create the look inspired by Ralph Lauren's backstage:

Base your eyelids with foundation. Tap snow-white matt eyeshadow until the crease of the lid. Make the eyes brighter by adding the white eyeshadow also the inside corner of the eye. If you like, make your eyes bigger by adding matte beige eyeshadow in the crease. Blend well, but make sure the eyelids stay white. Define the eye with white kajal. Curl the lashes and add a layer of black mascara, on both upper and lower lashes. Let it dry and add another one. As many as you dare!

Make your skin even by a foundation suitable of your skin type. My new favorite is to add it with beauty blender sponge, but Shiseido's round foundation brush never fails either. Hide the spots and red ares by the nose by tapping the concealer on the trouble area. Don't spread it back and forth, it only makes the concealer thinner and more see-through, not actually doing it's job. To attack the dark eye-circles that already-mentioned beauty blender sponge is a killer!

Add loose powder on your t-zone and contour your face lightly. Start spreading the powdery color under the cheekbones towards the ears. As you can see from the backstage picture, contouring is very light. Choose powdery, light pink blush.

Brush your eyebrows upward, you can choose to help some eyebrow gel or spray some hairspray on clean mascara brush.

The lips on this look are balmy, more fresh looking than on traditional 60's inspired makeup. Tap a berry-pink color on your lips with your finger. I like Bite's Raspberry.

Backstage from Altuzarra, also by Tom Pecheux

Altuzarra has been on NY fashion weeks only for five years and it is a show to watch. Tom Pecheux was the makeup artist also behind this look, but even that both in Ralph Lauren and with Altuzarra the white eyeshadow was on spot, the looks spirits are completely different. Altuzarra's look is more adult, more woman. It might remind you of Snow White, but with right kind of hair look and choice of clothes this look can be flattering and of course, very trendy.

To create Altuzarra-inspired makeup:

Prepare your eyelids with a thin layer of foundation or eyebase product. Add a small amount of loose powder. Choose a matte white eyeshadow and spread it with a natural brush on it's place. Make the color most intense until the crease of the lid and blend the color until all the corners of the eye. You can see the shape well on the pictures. The white color just below the highest point of the eyebrow makes the shape of it more lifted and shaped. Add just one layer of mascara on upper lashes. You can avoid the mascara stains on your lid by spreading the mascara against a spoon, business card, Sephora's lash comb..

Make your skin even with a foundation suitable for your skin. I like to add a drop of skin serum on the foundation to make it treating and SPF is a must-requirement. Add concealer and hide dark eyecircles if needed (look more spesific tips from RL's look) Secure the skin products with loose powder, concentrating on t-zone. Make a light contouring underneath your cheek bones. Add some more shape by adding highlight product on the highest points of your cheeck bones. I like MAC's Mineralize Skinfiinish and their creamy products. If the highlight product has some light-pink color in it, just better because the lack of blush.

This looks requires well-treated lips that you can ensure with lip balming. Before starting the lip-makeup, wipe the balm away, this result needs to be matte. Start by tapping foundation on your lips. Use a red lipliner, start on the cupid's arch and blending the color towards the middle. Choose a bright red, matte lipstick. MAC's China Red is a classic. Take a slice of it and place it on the back of your hand, mix it a bit: this way the color comes more intense than taking with a brush straight from the tube. Spread the color from the back of your hand on your lips. Start by defining teh cupid's arch with the brush, then from the middle, going towards the sides.Take a thin piece of paper and bite it with your lips, then add another layer of lipstick. Set your piece of paper again on your lips and tap loose powder through it on your lips with a clean natural brush. These lips last long!

Brush your eyebrows upwards and fill the holes with eyebrow pen or powdery product. Anastasia has a impressive selection. Keep the brows natural looking.

My favorite trick is in the end of makeup to fix it with MAC's Fix+ -spray. Close your eyes, stretch out your arm, aim to your face and press two times. Open your eyes, but squint them for a moment that the mascara won't spread on white eyelids. Fix+ makes the makeup last and blends the powdery and creamy products well together.

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Backstage of Helmut Lang by makeup artist Hannah Murray

Bold lips were also seen with Helmut Lang, who charmed the crowd with 90's wibe. Not by approaching it with grunge look, but more sophisticated road. Makeup artist Hannah Murray choose brownish-red lipstick. She didn't spread it as technically as on the backstage of Altuzarra, the result was wanted to be more natural next to well-shaped clothes. The trick on these lips was more dark color lipliner than the lipstick, blended towards the center.

Spring/Summer 2014 was full of lovely looks, there is more tips and tutorials from me to come to get inspired and express yourself!

Photos by style.com