About being a cruelty-free & Clean /Non-Toxic Makeup Artist by emma graef

Made mostly with clean / non toxic makeup products  Photographer: Starky Morillo II Model:  Diane-Laure  II Hair: Campbell and Campbell II Style: Leah Standish II Makeup by me

Made mostly with clean / non toxic makeup products

Photographer: Starky Morillo II Model: Diane-Laure II Hair: Campbell and Campbell II Style: Leah Standish II Makeup by me

Last autumn 2018 I decided to make my kit cruelty-free and with “clean beauty” skin care and makeup products, as long as the quality for my clients would not be disturbed.

What determines clean/non-toxic cosmetics? Unfortunately, the terms are not regulated. For me, it means cosmetic products that are safe for us to us — they won’t cause hormonal disturbances, are not carcinogenic, won’t irritate your skin and are also friendlier for the environment since these companies are paying attention to the recyclability of their packaging.

A couple of years ago I started to have a bad conscience about my profession. I started to be aware of the ingredients of cosmetic products and the consumerism in this business. Buying new products for my kit was difficult. I could spend hours in Sephora trying to make sense out of the ingredient lists. I had products in my kit that I wouldn’t use on myself daily and I couldn’t tolerate that thought any longer. Being a makeup artist is not about saving the world (though who hasn’t gasped ‘thank God for makeup’ on your not-freshest days?), but I started to feel as though I am actually doing harm here.

I started my research about harmful ingredients in cosmetics and the list turned out to be long and frustrating. I learned how here in the USA the FDA has banned 30 ingredients in cosmetics, compared to EU that has banned over 1300. The astonishing difference between the numbers are because EU’s politics are preventative and FDA bans or regulates the ingredients only after it is proved to cause health issues, which can take a long time and the process is complicated to execute. This fact alone makes me very anxious. Our skin absorbs a lot that we put on it and when you think about all the products people tend to layer on, it can get scary. Toners, serums, face creams, SPF, primers, foundations, concealers… Shall I go on?

To make things more complicated, this doesn’t mean that everything coming from the nature is safe and good for our skin. There are great synthetic ingredients as well as amazing natural ingredients and the companies that knows how to combine these ingredients (with high-quality results!) have made it to my kit.

What is inside the NEW NON-TOXIC Lumous Makeup kit?

Ready for bridal trials at Campbell and Campbell salon

Ready for bridal trials at Campbell and Campbell salon

Many “natural” beauty companies have essential oils in them. Some of the essential oils are high in antioxidants but are also skin irritants and damaging in the long run. Essential oils are actually very hard to avoid in the “clean beauty” department. Irritated skin shows signs of aging faster and it is like smoking tobacco or sunbathing — even if the damage is not instant there will be signs in later years. It depends on your skin type when the harm starts to show. My sensitive skin showed serious irritation (acne, redness, itchiness) after only couple of months of use (this was a learning experience). According to some studies, the amount of 0.1% of an essential oil is not irritating but this doesn’t take into account that there can be many of them combined. The essential oils are added to these products perhaps because of their antioxidant aspect and also as a fragrance.

Luckily we have some beauty brands that are paying attention to what is actually good for our skin and what makes it more beautiful. I have enjoyed using Paula’s Choice and Drunk Elephant products as skin care. They are fragrance free and the list of ingredients they are not putting on their products is thorough.

To find out exactly what products are in my kit, look for my follow-out post!

It is not beautiful inside-out if it is not cruelty-free

Art by @liina_music

Art by @liina_music

Since May 2018 I haven’t purchased makeup or skin care products that test on animals on any point of their development process. Cosmetic company can have a policy that they do not test on animals except if it’s required by law, which doesn’t make a company cruelty-free then. In China (excluding Hong Kong) animal testing is required by law for all foreign cosmetic companies. The products that are not made in China and that have a physical store in there are required for animal testing. This was very disappointing for me to learn. These companies actually pay for the Chinese government to do the animal testing.'

In comparison, animal testing is banned in E.U. The Chinese way is not necessary at all.
I believe these big companies entering the Chinese market can have the power to stop the cruel animal testing simply by not selling there. To stop the animal testing it needs a decision from a consumer too, to not buy these companies.

Of course I had always heard about the horrid conditions for these animals in labs but it was @rescuefreedomproject that truly opened my eyes. Also owning my own beagle mix rescue dog called Surku. No animal deserves a life in a lab but can you believe they use beagles for animal testing because of their loving, forgiving, calm nature? It’s too heartbreaking.
Luckily there are many brands that don’t test on animals so you can easily find an alternative product! I always check from @crueltyfreekitty before purchasing.
There is no reason to support these companies that test their products on animals. Simply, the animals are not here to try out in a very cruel, torturous way that our beauty products are okay for us to use.

If you are feeling anxious and hopeless after this post and want to throw everything out of your bathroom and beauty bag… I feel you! Because we don’t like stress either for our skin, start by cleaning your routine step by step. Start by saying no to cosmetic brands that are not cruelty-free and have fragrance in them, which is in my opinion the most concerning cosmetic ingredient. There is no benefit of fragrance for the skin at all and since the companies are under trade secret, we don’t know what is lurching under the glamorous “fragrance/parfum”. It is important to do some re-search about the company you are about to support as a consumer.

For my research I enjoyed reading the book “No More Dirty Looks” by Siobhan O’Connor ( I found it hard to put down when it was time to go to sleep!) The documentary “Stink!” about fragrance ingredient on Netflix is good to watch. I downloaded app “Think Dirty” that educates me of the ingredients of a beauty product when I am about to make a purchase (this app doesn’t recognize essential oils as harmful ingredient so just be aware of this). I also use Paula’s Choice Ingredient Dictionary and EWG Skin Deep.

If you have any questions or comments, I am happy to answer in the comments, through my email emma@lumousmakeup.com or on my Instagram @lumousmakeup

Bisous,

Emma / Lumous Makeup

Get Inspired with these Youtube Ladies by emma graef

Hello my dear reader, 

I am pretty new when it comes to the world of Youtube. Sure I have watched some pilates clips, funny dog or music video every now and then, but only during last two years it has become a weekly site to visit or let's be honest: daily! 

I wanted to share my two absolutely favorite makeup channels with you.

Jaclyn Hill 

During this past year Jaclyn Hill's career has exploded. She has millions of subscribes and fans, has her own makeup product (Champagne Pop with Becca) and I have heard rumors about her own up-and-coming makeup line! When I am watching her channel, it's not just about getting inspired or hearing if some lipstick is worth buying. It makes me very excited every time I see a new video waiting for me, Jaclyn is so lovable, bubbly and energetic. Jaclyn's look are very bold to me, but instead of wanting to copy some of her looks, she offers new ideas and inspiration. And whenever I need to run to Sephora to get a new makeup product, I can always blame Jaclyn to my husband! You have been warned, your wallet will get lighter after seeing a couple of Jaclyn's videos!

 

Lisa Eldridge 

Lisa is a very known professional in the fashion world. I almost want to get a magnifying glass while watching her videos, I want to know every detail of how she applies those products. Today I saw a video with Rosie Huntigton-Whiteley and one of the comments said it very well of how Lisa is truly like an artist and how "she doesn't apply makeup, she literally just feathers it on." I love the makeup looks she creates. They are about a natural glow and emphasizing your best features instead of hiding with a heavy hand your "flaws." She makes applying makeup look very simple, easy and fast, even with more dramatic looks. And that British charm truly works. 

 

Enjoy!

 

Bisous,

Emma

Q & A by emma graef

There are hundreds and hundreds of makeup artists in your area, so how will you find The One for your wedding or another important event ? The one with whom you don't feel like to check yourself from the mirror after every brush stroke? Here are questions you should be prepared to ask your potential makeup artist with my answers below. 

Makeups by me for Jennifer's wedding on October 2016 in New York City

Makeups by me for Jennifer's wedding on October 2016 in New York City

I can do my own makeup, why would I hire you?

The makeup artist is there to make the event even more memorable, glamorous and relaxed. You can be quite nervous on your wedding day and you don't want to have a meltdown while trying to master the eyeliner or hide dark circles after restless sleep. On my own wedding day, one of the most memorable moments was getting ready, talking with my sisters and other family members. My makeup for you will last through the emotional, long day in whatever climate condition. Since I have worked in countless photoshoots, I know how to create a look that looks as perfect in the photos as in nature. 

Also imagine all the inspirations, ideas, new tricks, knowledge and product recommendations you will learn while spending time with the professional! 

I am talented and I love my job. I love meeting brides-to-be and planning the look for them according to their style and wishes. One of the best ways to me to spend a weekend is at work! 

Are you a professional makeup artist?  

Yes. I graduated 2010 from International Makeup Center in Helsinki, Finland, that followed an internship with fashion and wedding makeup artist Jenny Jansson and in "Make Up Store", where I got important experience of giving makeup lessons and creating event makeups for women of every culture and age. After moving to Switzerland I had the honor to participate in a team of Christophe Durand, who also provided education while working in his salon Le Bal des Créateurs. While still occasionally modeling, I get to meet incredible talents in the industry who provides me inspiration and product comparisons. On my free-time I follow the latest trends and new products coming to the market to keep my kit as good and up-to-date as possible. 

Is this your first time doing wedding makeup? 

Though we all have to start somewhere, I have created the looks for many weddings in my career. I worked in Hair Salon Tangle (Salo, Finland) for wedding clients during summers 2011 and 2014. In New York clients have found me through Thumbtack and verbal recommendations. I also work for weddings through a beauty team Face Time Beauty

What is your signature look that you love to create? 

The most important part of the makeup for me is the skin. I will create skin that is glowing and flawless with a skin texture that still remains natural and breathable. This I do using latest techniques in brush knowledge and by defining the client's skin undertone to find the most flattering colors. Light contouring and highlighting is a must to bring out your most beautiful features. To answer the question, my signature look is fresh, natural, clean and polished, with your most striking feature -- that is, maybe brows, lips, eyelashes, catching the eyes. 

But I want a dramatic look. Do you recommend it?

How is your every day makeup like? Or do you normally take it up a notch to your look for the parties? Or maybe you are just curious how different you would look with a more dramatic look? Winged eyeliner, bright lips and soft, seductive smokey-eyes are always a great choice to request from a professional and I love doing those looks as well! Sometimes a natural, romantic look is just not the best option, so we need some black kajal pencil and bold lips! Regardless, I love makeup and to get creative with it. My dream request from a client would be to create a makeup that flatters her and that is inspired from some of the latest runway show. 

What brands do you use?

I like MAC Cosmetics, Makeup Forever, Nars, Urban Decay, Laura Mercier, Clinique, Makeup Store... I choose the products by their pigment, quality, ingredients, durability and how they work in photographs. The products I will use on your skin will be decided by your skin type.

Do you travel to me on my wedding day and for trial?  

Yes I travel to you. I am based In Beacon, New York. Depending on your event location and the number of makeups performed, a travel fee may be added. 

When should a bride book her pre-wedding trial? Is the trial recommended?

Book your makeup artist 6-9 months before your wedding day, the sooner, the safer! I recommend the trial to be 3-6 weeks before the wedding. By then you probably have an idea if you wear silver or gold jewelry, what your hair style going to be like and most importantly, what your dress looks like. Furthermore, on the trial you will have the same level of tanning as on your wedding day and the colors and shades chosen will be perfect.

The trial ensures that the vision between you and your makeup artist align. The "natural" look so many brides want can be understood in many ways! The trial decreases the stress by giving you confidence in your makeup artist on the wedding day (and also saves time, when the artist already knows exactly the products to use!). 

How big of a wedding party can you accommodate and how long does it take the makeup to be completed?

If the wedding party is more than five ladies, I would ask one of my professional makeup artist partners to join me. I book one hour for the bride and 30-45 minutes for others in need of makeup. 

Are you comfortable working with all ethnicities?

Absolutely! I have had the joy to work with all ethnicities. 

Do you offer airbrush or traditional foundation or both? 

At the moment I only offer traditional application. Personally I love working with brushes and choose the right products for my client's skin type. With the latest brush techniques and products the result can be 'poreless', even, and and as covering as needed. I have gotten my sense of style and education in Europe, where airbrush is not requested. Airbrush is not also the best choice for every skin type. Often people think it is the best choice for a bad skin, but airbrush can not even out your skin to perfection (only airbrushing in photoshop can!) Airbrush works best on already very even and "normal" skin type, since it is very thin. It is used a lot on tv-sets and for some actors on red carpet. 

Where can I see your prices and portfolio?

On my website www.lumousmakeup.com 

What does the makeup include? Do you add fake eyelashes?

Every makeup is a full-face makeup, every part necessary or wished to create the wanted look. It includes adding individual or full-line fake eyelashes (if wanted). I like to use House of Lashes or Velour Lashes, since they look very natural and the hair is high-quality and fluffy. 

 

If there are any other question or booking request in your mind, do no hesitate to add it on the comment box or send me an email: emma@lumousmakeup.com

 

Bisous, 

Emma

 

 

 

 

Berryful by emma graef

..... And more new makeup product testing! 

One of my favorite makeup trends for this spring and summer was berryful lips. I see it as a bit more mature version of bright pink and fuchsia trend rolling still a year before. And as you can follow from Fall 2015 shows, berries are still on the lips this upcoming season. 

Looks from left to right: Trussardi, Dolce&Gabbana and No. 21, photo behind  this link . No. 21 is my favorite with lips that look like applied care-freely by finger, from a bowl of juice berries or the color would be bitten through the lips!

Looks from left to right: Trussardi, Dolce&Gabbana and No. 21, photo behind this link. No. 21 is my favorite with lips that look like applied care-freely by finger, from a bowl of juice berries or the color would be bitten through the lips!

I've found many makeup artist during a couple of season describing their looks as girls had applied them by them self (as on No. 21 look above) or that they had woken up like that after a good party. But I guess a good makeup artist sees where he smudges look the best. ;)

My favorites (on top of my bible) for berryful lips, both from  Bite Beauty ,  High Pigment Pencil  color  Violet  (well yes, it's very violet, not actually that berry. But still very cool and creamy.) and  Lush Lip Tint  color  Raspberry .

My favorites (on top of my bible) for berryful lips, both from Bite BeautyHigh Pigment Pencil color Violet (well yes, it's very violet, not actually that berry. But still very cool and creamy.) and Lush Lip Tint color Raspberry.

About new products to test. I was very hopeful for DiorSkin Nude Air Serum SPF 20. Many promising words in that name! Serum refers to curative effect and SPF to maintaining younger looking skin and protection. (Though SPF is not suitable for studio photo shoots or events where you're gonna have your photo taken with a flash. SPF foundations can create white zebra spots in the photos.) I poured the foundation on my palette and it was like water coming out of the jar. Extra fluid, I see. I experienced right away the heartbreaking feeling of a foundation waste. I tapped light spots on top of my nose, cheeks, chin and fore head and started tapping and spreading with Shiseido round foundation brush. The texture felt very special! Like spreading oil on your skin. It worked well on my cheeks, but it was catastrophic on t-zone, specially on the nose where the foundation revealed sharply how dry my skin is on the surface. Trying to make it better with fingers and warming the foundation up just made it worse. I ended up swiping the foundation of from t-zone and adding Lush Celestial face cream. After letting it absorb into my skin I gently applied trustworthy foundation (Lancôme Teint Miracle) to safe the daySo as a summary, Dior Nude Air Serum is not for me, but maybe it creates sheer complexion for you, if you're not in need of more than light-medium coverage.

That' all. 

 

Bisous

Emma

 

Everyday-Look vs. The Evening Look by emma graef

As a model I learned how to leave an apartment in 10minutes, with the least amount of makeup products applied on my face as possible. People who cast a model for a shoot are interested of seeing a girl as an empty canvas. Some days I enjoy a dark smudgy eye or seductive cat-liner, but usually the everyday-look is nothing more than what you see above. 

Glowing, natural looking skin with a fresh looking texture is number one result for me. After comes defined, upwards-brushed "bushy" eyebrows, which frames the face and gives a nice Tomboy-touch. My kit-must product for brows is Makeup Forever Aqua Brow that I use in shade 25. Though I keep looking at Givenchy's SS15 catwalk makeup and model Anna Ewers' lovely face, bleached eyebrows has that beautiful sun-kissed vibe (or alien) going on. Makes me wanna blond my hair again! 

Lips on the picture above are carrying one of my favorite lip product Smashbox O-Plump that in addition to shine gives a little swell and color to your lips. 

 

The everyday look needs a pinch of color to look fresh. I used  Urban Decay Naked 2-palette  shade "Half Baked" sweeping back-and-forth on my crease of the eyelid, then blending with care using "Bootycall" on my brow bone. Cheeks got shape and color (besides of cold air outside), from  MAC Blush Cream  shade "Lilicent." Foundation is one of my favorite,  Lancôme's Teint Miracle,  that gives light to medium coverage.

The everyday look needs a pinch of color to look fresh. I used Urban Decay Naked 2-palette shade "Half Baked" sweeping back-and-forth on my crease of the eyelid, then blending with care using "Bootycall" on my brow bone. Cheeks got shape and color (besides of cold air outside), from MAC Blush Cream shade "Lilicent." Foundation is one of my favorite, Lancôme's Teint Miracle, that gives light to medium coverage.

So here we are with the second look that I made when two of our friends came to dinner and for a bit of whisky and wine. I can tell you, the more I added, the more uncomfortable I became. I guess I wasn't on my more is more -days. On eyes I used Make Up Store's black cake eyeliner and again Urban Decay's palette shades "Half Baked" (have I told you it's my favorite for everything?) and on the outer corner of the eyes and crease of the eyelid shade "Pistol." But I gotta inform you, the Givenchy's Phenomen'Eyes Effect mascara (see the previous post) did a lot better job since I tried it on last time! I believe this product just needs a bit of getting-used-to, very well done eyelash-curling and long swipes with it's special brush from the beginning to the end of a lash. 

The contouring is one of my favorite parts doing makeup. It gives an instant change, lift and more color. My favorite products are MAC's Pure Sculpture cream for under the cheek bones applied with fingers and MAC's Beauty Powder shade "Play it Proper" on the highest point of the cheek bones. On this look I used the same MAC Blush Cream "Lilicent" as in the first look, that is a pretty safe choice if you don't know beforehand which lipstick you're gonna use.  

On lips I have Make Up Store's shade "Crown." I'm on a mission trying to find strong contestant for it. (I think upcoming MAC's Cinderella collection's lipstick "Royal Ball" looks pretty promising!)

 

       

 

 

 

So what are your thoughts? Do you believe an event has a need for a certain makeup? Could you choose to go for a night-with-friends without mascara or does the magic of applying your favorite products give an extra boost for the night? Does cat eyeliner only go with your party dress or also on your grocery store trips? 

 

The photos are all un-edited, taken in a sunlight coming from my attic window. 

 

Bisous

Emma

Makeup Products in Test by emma graef

Lumous Makeup has landed in USA! Now when settled on this side of the world, I'm excited to give a lot of attention to this makeup blog. 

My first purchase after landing to Newark airport was Urban Decay's Naked 2- eyeshadow palette, which is in every makeup artist's kit for creating the best nude eyes. I am also hunting the best foundation out there. Many makeup artist swears after Makeup Forever's Face and Body, but before carrying those jars in the counter of Sephora, I'm gonna do some research. Today's foundation is Bare Minerals Bare Skin Pure Brightening Serum Broad Spectrum spf 20 Foundation, (now that's a name) which I was curious about because of the word "serum" in it, which means promises of skin care. Also a product without a SPF on my fair skin would be an absolutely no-no. Third product in test is Givenchy Phenomen'Eyes Effet Extension mascara. Let's talk about the results with a help of pictures.

Urban Decay NAKED -palette. I used  Foxy  for priming with the foundation,  Half Baked  in the outer corners of the eyes blending with  Suspect  that I brushed from lash line to mid lid and finally  Snake Bite  on lower lash line. 

Urban Decay NAKED -palette. I used Foxy for priming with the foundation, Half Baked in the outer corners of the eyes blending with Suspect that I brushed from lash line to mid lid and finally Snake Bite on lower lash line. 

The result against mid-day sunlight coming out of the window, without any photo editing. 

My skin used to be until lately dry and sensitive, but now is in a state of much spots on the T-zone. I'm from Finland which usually means that the skin type is thin, which comes out as uneven skin tone and sensitivity. My wings of the nose are red and circles around my eyes nearly dark blue even after a good night sleep. A month ago I changed from rich face creams into oil-free face cream from Neutrogena. This new skin-problem combined with freckles can be problematic , because you don't wanna cover the freckles, but you want enough cover to hide all the skin-tone differences and impurities. Bare Minerals foundation is aboslutely superbe! I tapped and spread it in place with Shiseido's round foundation brush (highly recommended) and it glided on my skin effortlessly creating quickly pretty beautiful and glowing result, don't you think? On spots, dark circles of the eyes and around nose I used concealer. I wouldn't buy this product though for every client use, because I feel mineral foundation is not a solution for a dry skin type.

On most makeup stores or counters you can first ask a sample right for your skin to to try at home! 

       

 

 

 

The Urban Decay Naked 2 Palette also worked just perfectly, as I predicted as a previous owner of Naked 1 -palette. The colors blend all well together and have enough pigment. Colors are glowing and doesn't give an impression of powder eyeshadow. Simply, this product should be in everyone's makeup bag. If you're a fan of more dramatic look, the black eyeshadow in the palette is the answer. Mine eyeliner in the picture was MAC's Fluidline shade Blactrack.

But if all products would work as promised, I wouldn't have any reason to write about. I had a lot of expectations for Givenchy Phenomen'Eyes Effet Extension mascara, but it ended up disapointing me. And it's not the most affordable product out there! I expected separated, long lashes, but the result was cakey and it didn't spread evenly on lashes. Even lash comb couldn't save the look. 

But. This is what I always think after just-opening a mascara. After letting it breath a week, or whatever magic it does, the experience is usually totally different. Also the brush is special, this might just need another try. 

       

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh one last thing. On Sping-Summer 2015 catwalks one of the trendy looks for hair was called "air-dryed texture." Good news, right! Though on my hair it doesn't mean that it would look catwalk-ready if I just let it air-dry after shower. Noup. Put it on low ponytail very quickly after seeing these photos. 

I hope this post was useful to you!

I'll be right back with the looks from SS2015 catwalk!

 

Bisous, 

Emma

 

 

Recovering From Teenage Years Traumas by emma graef

When I think about my teenage years "style", I feel so proud of myself. Not because I looked so classy back then, but how much my style has developed since!

I had a style face with black kajal and studs. Then I saw Shakira and I wanted my hair be as blond, surfy and curly as hers. I combined this with LOTS of black mascara, light pink or golden eyeshadow and white waterline kajal. I rounded my eyes with black pen, like a panda. It included desperate efforts of learning flirty cat-eyeliner. I also had an issue that my nose is too big, so I tried to make it look smaller by contouring around it. Unfortunately I hadn't heard about blending. I also believed that the more darker or bright color I paint my lips, the more smaller my nose looks. As a teenager I prefered glossy result to matte. The amount of ligloss I had on my lips.. Combine all this together. Jaiks.

Anyway, inspired by spring rtw14 catwalk looks, today I felt ready. Ready to give light pink eyeshadow, snow-white kajal and lipgloss combination another try.

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What is different on 2014 to 2002? I didn't actually have light pink eyeshadow in my kit. I used my light pink blush instead. I made sure to blend it well, towards my eyebrows and the sides. I rimmed my eyes with white kajal pen, not forgetting the lower waterlines. I curles my lashes and add brown mascara just on the top lashes, concentrating on the outer corners.

Model at Giles ss14RTW

Also compared to when I was 14-years old, now I don't have weird plucked lines as eyebrows.. I didn't manage to find my usual taupe-colored Make Up Store's pen for my eyebrow, so I used copper colored MAC kajal pen instead. I drew the lines and the shape with the pen and softened with a clean mascara brush. I filled the gaps with Anastasia's blond-colored eyebrow powder. My eyebrows tend to hang downwards, so almost always I finish with Kiko's colored eyebrow gel.

I colored my lips with Kiko's soft light pink lip pencil and tapped peach colored lip gloss in the middle.

I was wearing a forest-green skirt with a white tank-top. With a braid crown the result felt a bit too... Gnome! Pink hair chalk came to the rescue to make the look more urban.

When I was 14-years old, I didn't mind if the makeup hid my freckles. With freckled skin there is basically two choices: to cover them completely or use as light foundation as possible. Otherwise the freckles come through the foundation as gray spots! Today I used Dior's Nude Glow foundation mixed with skin serum by Lumene. I blended it on my skin with beauty blender sponge by Sephora, which is AMAZING. Highly recommended.

I hid my red areas around the nose and dark circles around the eyes. I did contouring with MAC's Cream Color Base: I added a spot just below my cheek bone and blended towards my ears. As a blush, I used creamy coral colored one from Forever21.

Finally I added MAC's Mineralize Skinfinish with a MAC's Duo Fibre Face Brush. It has shimmer in it, so though I added it pretty care-freely around my face, I concentrated on my cheekbones and the centre of the forehead. The last light to my makeup was MAC's Beauty Powder, color Play it Proper that besides the cheek bones I brushed below and above the highest point of my eyebrows. And no makeup is finished without a squirt or two of MAC's Fix+.

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The key-products of the makeup, from top row left: MAC's beauty powder, Makeup Store blush "Sugar Muffin", Pieces pink hair chalk, MAC's Fix+, Kiko's Extra Volume lipgloss, Forever 21 Créme Blush, MAC's Mineralize Skinfinish shade "Soft and Gentle", Kiko's lip pencil shade 604 and kajal with black and white sides from Bonjour.

My treasure-box!

One trauma defeated! I wonder if I also could beat my fear against light blue eyeshadow..?

Bad Girls by emma graef

When I do mine or my client's makeup, I give a lot of attention to create perfect, luminous, contoured, glowing skin. Next important part is the eyebrows: will the result look more interesting with shaped, but natural eyebrows, with bleached ones or maybe with ones borrowed from Cara Delevingne?

Then comes the eyes and lips, the ones with what you can really play and express your personality. Sounds more interesting and fun, but putting strong eye -or lip makeup next to un-even skin, that is just decreasing the effect of the catch of the makeup. You can only built strong on strong base!

I had long period, when I loved nude, natural makeup on myself, just after I had graduaded from my makeup school. This is understandable when during my school time I could go out wearing dark blue smokey eyes with red eyebrows..

But now I'm also all thrilled again for colors and textures that screams for attitude and what you can actully see on your face. Every time I draw black waterliners, I'm instantly much cooler. Yeah.. Keep repeating that.

Spring 2014 RTW showed us signs of boredom to the natural looking models. This year is after all about showing you personality. All these houses wanted the models to look like they've been partying, having the best night ever and woke up the next morning on a beach, still looking gorgeous.

Erdem by James Kaliardos

Versace by Pat McGrath. The makeup artist reminded on style.com how this is a natural look from Versace. They are only using half a line of fake eyelashes and light-colored lips!

Jonathan Saunders by Lucia Pieroni

Topshop Unique Hannah Murray

Attend a party or go and have a coffee while rocking out these makeup looks and people will know you didn't come there to knit your heart out..